While Legal Sea Foods is certainly the big fish in the pond of fresh seafood restaurants, leading the industry with unique concepts, preparations and quality control procedures, there has been a push of late to get a little smaller.
Among the recent results of this neighborhood-focused feel are Legal Oysteria in Charlestown and Legal Crossing in Downtown Boston.
With its black brick and ambient but ample lighting, Legal Crossing (“LX” in the local lingo) is clearly a different breed of Seafood, but with its inspirations from Asia and from whatever is available nearby that day (as is always the way with the fresh-first folks at LSF), it is still clearly Legal.
Holding on to such Legal favorites as the off-the-boat fish selections that can be prepared as you like it or as the creative chefs suggest, the cleverly-named and delicious drinks and the famous rolls, LX sets itself apart by adding such additional advantages as homemade breads and cheese puffs and a designated by description wine list that offers international selections from both classically pedigreed and progressively cool vintners. In addition to such lip-smacking libations as the “Forbidden colada, the Mobster whisky-based Tea Party, the Disco Ball and the “Chronic” gin and tonic, there is also an ample array of draft and bottle beers (including gluten- and alcohol-free options),, as well as port, grappa, brandy, rum, tequila and mescal, rye, bourbon, Irish and Scotch whiskeys, and a worth-requesting menu of single-malt varieties as well.
Among the opening offerings is an omnipotent order of oysters served with or without freshly-made seasonal sorbets. There is also Legal’s famed shellfish tower and pancetta-paired stuffies. Soup and salad selections include yellow tomato gazpacho with Maine crabmeat and the LX Caesar with baby kale and yogurt dressing. Pizza picks include crab and pepperoni and a white clam pie. No matter what else you order to tart things off, be sure to shoot for some bang bang cauliflower and you may also want to consider a slathered set of lacquered ribs. As for “mains,” LX offers everything from seafood staples like broiled or baked catches du jour and grilled lobster with tomato and avocado salad to “everything” tuna with tzatziki sauce and roasted red peppers, the amazing hoisin salmon with pad thai, and a pastrami-wrapped monkfish that satisfies every taste bud you got! For those who favor the shore, LX also has pan-seared duck with a grilled peach and herbed quinoa, lamb brochette with house cous cous and a 49-day aged sirloin with hand cut fries. If the suggested sides do not suffice (yeah- right!), there are also seaweed salads, smoked onion rings, braise kale and corn gratin (all of which are worth adding even if your main plate Is packed with flavor, as it usually is). When the meal is drawing to a close, be sure to save rom for fresh fruit cobblers, homemade ice creams, “adult” profiteroles or “sin free” mousse.
The front, wine-backed and flat-screen-flanked bar is long and slightly curved, inviting everyone gathered there to lean in as one and get to know each other. Large windows open to the bustle of Washington Street, bringing the recently re-expanding neighborhood in as well. On the other hand, private lavatories offer classy and comfy cabanas in which to take care of more private matters.
While any table at a Legal venue is a site of excitement and satisfaction, LX has upped the anti with a collaboration with Design Museum Boston (designmuseumfoundation.org) in which they and a handful of other area eateries are featuring unique installations by area artists. While others involve such distinguished designers as Payette, STA, and others, the most illuminating and well conceived is clearly the private table at LX. It is so cool, in fact, that they have installed a “peek” hole outside so people can enjoy the space even if they cannot find a group of 6-8 and make a reservation 48 hours in advance. Those who are so fortunate are offered a multi-course Asian-themed tasting menu set on and around a table on which both a platform and the colors rotate, adding a new design dimension (and the Legal seal of approval) to the popular Pu-Pu Platter platform found in nearby Chinatown.
So whether you are hankering for some of the best fish this side of the shore or are cooking to branch out into new taste adventures, this adventurous addition to the legendary Legal line has something for you that will surely impress and illuminate, all while bringing the cool back to Boston’s long-neglected downtown.
Legal Crossing
558 Washington Street, Boston