As the Boston market continues to expand, hip eateries continue to pop up in the burbs (see recent issues). And while this can be fun for a foodie (or food writer), sometimes, you just want to go where the menu is simple, the food is real, and the people are just your kind.

Thank goodness for the historic Natick eatery that is Casey’s Diner (www.caseysdiner.com)!

Even before sliding the front (which is actually the side) door of this Worcester-built train car diner (which replaced the four-seat horse-drawn wagon that the eponymous epicurean Fred Casey bought in the 1920s), the smell of Casey’s famous dogs and burgers draws you in like the cartoon fingers grabbing the Big Bad Wolf’s nose in old Disney versions of the Three Little Pigs.
Speaking of pigs, in addition to the famous cast iron stove-boiled Frankfurters (which many people order by the bagful, both at the counter or at the conveniently covered take-out window), Casey’s is also known for its creative use of other cuts of pork, including sandwiches handmade with ham and cheese, chopped ham and pickle, chopped or sliced ham and egg, HLTs and of course, bacon as an add-on for pretty much everything. In addition, they can also sling some egg or tuna salad on a soft roll, or enhance their oft-onion-stuffed burgers with cheese, peppers, another patty, or the signature “All Around,” which predates ketchup with its inclusive order of mustard, relish and onion.

When the meat and egg portion is done, order up a slice of classic diner pie, including such standard and seasonal servings as pumpkin, pecan, rhubarb, blueberry, apple, squash, banana cream Boston cream, or custard. To wash it down? Well, Casey’s does offer canned soda, cartooned milk, and (at the risk of being trendy) bottled water, as well as such belated beverages as Sanka and even bouillon (which are still on the menu, if only for sentimental reasons). However, the latest drinkable delight that is worth a special visit (or a return later in the day) is locally- (and lovingly-) produced Blue Fire coffee, which goes great with pie or one of the regular donations from the Casey family’s friends at Well-Fed Bakery.

For those who think donuts are just for breakfast, Casey’s has you covered there too, serving up classic diner fare from 7-10:30 Monday through Saturday and 8-11:30 on Sundays (whereas lunch and dinner are served 10:30-8 on weekdays and Saturdays and 11:30-3 on Sundays). In addition to their signature French toast (in regular or cinnamon swirl), Casey’s also offers egg sandwiches and melts, English and grilled muffins, bagels, or just a simple, satisfying bowl of cereal with milk. Of course, bacon is available as a side, as is fruit. For the true Casey’s fan, however, the morning choice is often the Good Morning Burger, which includes bacon, egg, and cheese on a muffin or bagel, with celery salt available all along the counter, alongside the paper plates and napkins.

Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, Casey’s has not changed much since Fred opened it in 1927. Even the old cigarette machine is still there! Thankfully, what has also not changed at all is the way customers are treated. They are not just customers or even guests- They are family! In fact, many regulars have their orders waiting for them before they even sit down! Also, many of Casey’s staff participate in such community-minded events as the Jimmy Fund Walk so they can help sustain and support their friends and neighbors in other ways as well. And just like at any family meal, the conversation is flowing and fun, as the cooks sling diner lingo back and forth while offering humor and advice to everyone on the other side of the worn wooden bar.

Such simple pleasures are what make Casey’s so comfortable and, in a world of ever-increasing pretense (and prices), so inviting. Running up the painted walls between the tile floor and the arched copper roof are pictures of Natick’s past and of the generations that have run and eaten at Casey’s before. No matter which of the ten seats you take, you truly feel like part of the place and the people and the food make you want to be such again and again.

So while the simple, sturdy, and suitable-for-home-use coffee mugs claim that Casey’s is “where the elite meet to eat,” you do not necessarily have to be a somebody to feel like one at this historic and enduring local gem.