Bilt Like No Other – Newton eatery combines comfy and crafty (Originally published 9/12)

Tucked into the residential area of Newton Upper Falls is a home-grown and comfortably home-y type of place that could easily become a “local” even for folks from out of town. No wonder, then, that it is the older sibling of popular Southie spot Local 149!

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With its worn (er- “salvaged”) wooden tables (each of which is conveniently stocked with sugar, rock salt, water jugs and hot sauce), warmly copper-colored pressed tin ceilings, mahogany paneling and vintage metal advertising signs, as well as old gas pumps, Sox memorabilia, illuminated bar signs from yesterday and today, and a set of blackboards trumpeting the daily food and drink updates in soft pastels, The Biltmore is part restaurant, part rec room, and all comfortable. And this sense of down-home comfort is reflected in the menu. From the locally-sourced cheese selections to the “of the moment” specials, The Biltmore takes the best of what’s around and puts it together in creative but comfortable (there’s that word again!) ways. From the famed hog wings (pork shanks in BBQ sauce) and “crazy delicious” fries (topped with multiple cheeses, gravy and an egg!) to shrimp tacos and rabbit ravioli to the respectable raw bar, chi-chi charcuterie and the homemade potato crisps that are stored in old wooden Budweiser bins, the Biltmore is sure to start your meal off right no matter what you choose. And if you just want that first bite, the “lounge” area (i.e., the bar) offers companionship and HD TVs along with such satisfying and savory “snacks” as homemade fried pickles, deviled eggs, and bluefish cakes. If you are in for the long haul, pull up a lovingly used chair in the main eating room and try the organic fried chicken with Belgian vanilla waffles, the veggie-topped flatbread, the ancho-rubbed pork chop, Memphis ribs with beans and fresh fruit (Gotta’ be healthy, ya’ know?!) or any of the Biltmore’s three burger varieties, which include salmon, veggie or the eponymous Biltmore burger with or without an egg (but you know you want to try it with!).

For those with lighter appetites, there are a series of simple salads that run in varying shades of farm-fresh greens and come topped with such things as beets, turkey tips, or pancetta. There is also a thick gumbo that could stand in for a meal in a pinch, especially when paired with some of the great sides, like sautéed greens, mac & cheese, or the sweet and thick house-made pickles.

While the food is worth the trip, The Biltmore gets most of its history from its stint as a Prohibition-era pub. That legacy is revealed most notably in The Biltmore’s extensive beer list (they will be hosting a special Dogfish Head event September 24) and their authentic renditions of authentic cocktails. From neighborhood beers like Sam and Harpoon (some of which are featured in regular beer dinners and other special events) to more exotic flavors from Brooklyn, Berkeley, Belgium and beyond, the beer list (which is conveniently divided into draught, can, and bottle categories) is an adventure in alcohol (and with flights at just $10, you can afford to be adventurous too!). And when you add to the handful of whites and red such classic hits as the original Sazerac, a mason jarred, fresh fruited Old Fashioned, a “medicinal” whisky (made with bourbon and cinnamon), Hemingway’s Papa Doble, James Bond’s legendary Vesper and the “perfect” Manhattan (their claim, not ours, but…), in addition to the somewhat more daring weekend brunch drink specials like the Hendricks and fruit-flavored Stardust and the tomato and lager Red Beer, it is easy to see why The Biltmore has been a focus on booze and beer lovers for over 90 years.

Another thing that people should be sure to not leave without is one (at least one) of The Biltmore’s creative and fun desserts! From a fried Fluffrernutter with somewhat redundant raspberry sauce to a fresh-flamed s’mores pie that puts every great childhood flavor in each bite to the gluten-free offering du jour (imported fresh from Southie) and a carrot cake made with fresh carrots, the little list truly has something for everyone and, like the rest of the menu, will leave every member of your family feeling full and happy.

While Newton may not be known for its night owls, The Biltmore aims to please with a “late night” (as in midnight) menu that includes items from the raw bar and cheese board, as well as salads, burgers, and a tuna melt that can taste-fully absorb even their own bartender’s best shots. They also have live music on Saturday nights for those who want some good entertainment without leaving the neighborhood. For those who want to roll out of bed on the weekends (or who had one beer flight too many), The Biltmore also offers a brunch from 11-3 both days that includes everything from Scottish eggs, Nova salmon, crunchy French toast and Greek yogurt to all-American sausage and biscuits, breakfast burritos and pizza(!), and, for those who may be feeling guilty about the night before, a kale and quinoa salad with pomegranate seeds that any Newton-born doctor would love! Among the mid-day sides are a bagel with a shmear of cream cheese or lox, pork shoulder hash, or such other “livestock” options as Applewood-smoked bacon, duck sausage, chicken and apple sausage or the extra-homemade “house” sausage.

It’s always nice to have a good place to eat with the family or grab a drink with the guys/gals in the neighborhood. What makes The Biltmore different is that many people come from other neighborhoods to try it out. But with so much good food and easygoing good times, why not?

Biltmore Bar & Grille

1205 Chestnut Street, Newton

www.thebiltmoregrill.com

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