Eric Bogardus
Petit Robert Central Bistro
101 Arch Street, Boston
www.petitrobertbistro.com
From the legendary (and much missed0 Mason Robert to the ever-growing chain of Petit Roberts Bistros (now in Kenmore, Brighton, Needham, the South End and the “Central” location in Downtown Crossing) the name Jacky Robert is legend in Boston and far beyond. Therefore, to be picked as his right hand chef adds great cache to any career. As the former chef of the also beloved Pignoli and the also be-mourned Lucy’s in Coolidge Corner, White House Chef candidate Eric Bogardus already has a name of his own, but in his time as Executive Chef at Petit Robert, he has been able to build on his reputation and on the city’s claim to some of the world’s best by using his international training and flair to complement Robert’s famed creativity and kitchen command with his own. As Bogardus prepares to release his latest seasonal menu, Matt’s Meals caught up with him to see how he became the great chef he is and what he has in store.
Matt’s Meals: How did you get into cooking?
Eric Bogardus: When I was about eight years old, I loved watching Julia Child cook on television, and from there it grew. I used to sneak out of bed in the middle of the night and try cooking and chopping in my kitchen in the dark – So it has always been there. When I was in college, I worked in a bakery and café to help put myself through school. As I was finishing my degree in anthropology, the owner of the café gave me a book called “Becoming a Chef” and he told me I should really consider doing it as a career.
MM: Where was your first professional kitchen experience?
EB: I worked at a few places while I was in college…a café, a bakery, a steak house, but my first real experience came from working at Pignoli (Lydia Shire’s second restaurant). I had read about her in the book “Becoming a Chef” and on a total leap of faith packed my car up with whatever I could fit and drove from Illinois to Boston to see if I could get hired. They hired me right away, but I had to live in my car for a few months to get by while learning.
MM: What is your favorite dish to prepare?
EB: I don’t really have a favorite all time dish to make. It really depends on the season and what kind of day I’m having. For example, in the winter I love just grabbing some nice root vegetables and a hunk of boneless short rib, covering it with a nice burgundy and beef stock, and letting it go all day. In the summer, I love anything grilled. There is nothing better than fresh, clean tasting vegetables that are lightly grilled with minimal seasoning and served with a nice piece of tuna or halibut. As for my favorite flavor combination, I would definitely say sweet and spicy is the way to go for most occasions.
MM: What is the best part of your job?
EB: It has got to be a tie between either seeing someone’s face when they see a plate and get that first taste, or just the aspect of this job that is ever changing. Everything is in a constant flux whether it is your menu changing, that daily rush of people, or the opportunities to try new things. It’s never the same from day to day. At this point, I’m not sure I would ever be able to work a job that I didn’t feel like pulling my hair out on a daily basis!
MM: Who is your favorite chef in Boston?
EB: I think Jose Duarte is a chef who is ultra-aware of the impact our industry has on the environment, our culture, and the importance of teaching these elements to the public.
MM: What do you usually make for yourself at home?
EB: My girlfriend and I tend to keep it super simple when we get the chance to cook. She is a dietician, so that helps keep me from taking a bath in the butter. We love a simple roast chicken with fresh herbs from our deck, or if we are feeling fancy, we will roll out some dough and make some fresh mozzarella pizza with basil from the deck.
MM: If you could dine with any three people, who would they be?
EB: My Father, who passed away a few years ago, because we never got to share that food passion that we both had. Julia Child, who I was lucky enough to meet several times but I never got to sit down and share a plate of food with and pick her brain. Last, the person who invented Gin, because I want to thank them for helping me get through some pretty vicious days.