Wrapped in majestic golds and crimsons reminiscent of the robes worn by Cambodian monks, The Elephant Walk has been offering its neighbors choices that are just a bit off the beaten path for over 10 years. Once the home of a local bank, the Walk has survived a gutting fire and now once again stands proudly on the corner of Beacon Street and Park Drive. And though it may be just over the border in Boston, with its combination of French, Cambodian, and Continental selections, the Walk is well worth…well, the walk!
“There is really no other place in the area like us,” says Manager Allen Scott, “especially for brunch.”
And what a brunch!
For only $22.50, guests can sit in the Walk’s airy, sunlight rooms, enjoying a full Continental breakfast buffet in addition to any one of their deliciously exciting appetizers and main courses. All meals come with the Walk’s do-it-yourself Bloody Mary bar and an assortment of fresh juices (including fresh-squeezed orange juice, which goes very well in a morning Mimosa), coffees, and teas.
“We started the brunch because customers had told me that they wanted a new place to go on Sundays where they could park and relax,” Scott explains. “People were calling for it, so we decided to give it to them. There is a need in this neighborhood for a good brunch and that is what we are trying to provide.”
The buffet includes thick-cut salmon, sweet and flaky homemade pastries, and creamy and tart Greek yogurt that can be tried alone or sweetened with honey or a variety of exotic fresh fruits.
Among the available choices are an artistic and well-balanced salade niçoise, a simple yet satisfying baby greens and tomato salad dressed in a pungent and tangy vinaigrette (salad verte), and soupe Phnom-Penh, the classic Cambodian noodle soup with slivered ground pork, bean sprouts, scallion, cilantro, cabbage, and garlic. For the Francofile, the Walk offers a variety of crepes stuffed with everything from ground beef and mushrooms to orange and Grand Marnier. One of Chef Nadsa de Monteiro’s brunch specialties is Croque Madame, a gorgeous stack of ham, egg, and cheese served on a hearty baguette.
“The restaurant originally opened in Somerville as a strictly Cambodian restaurant,” Allen explains, citing the Walk’s sister site, which is now found on Mass. Ave. in Cambridge. “The French was added as an alternative to help bring people in who might have been sacred about the Cambodian menu. As it turns out, the Cambodian menu has been very well received.”
So much, so, in fact, that the Walk has been named one of Esquire magazine’s best restaurants and is a perennial chart topper in Zagat’s and other dining guides.
In addition to the new brunch, the Walk also offers a four-course tasting menu for $29.95 and a variety of vegetarian options as well. Among the house specialties are Filet de Thon, a pan-seared tuna that is served sushi style with a pair of chili sauces and pear and scallion raviolis.
“It is a combination of sweet and spicy that goes together well,” Scott says.
Hearkening to her own Cambodian roots, frequent James Beard House guest de Monteiro also creates such traditional offerings as Pomg Mouan Snol (a Cambodian pork omelet), Bo Bong (chilled rice noodles with beef and onion), and Bai Leang Chah K’neyi (stir-fried jasmine rice with sliced hanger steak).
“It is not fusion,” Scott emphasizes. “It is original French and authentic Cambodian. A lot of French restaurants have small portions. Here, the food is hearty and plentiful.”
Patrons who may not be quite ready for Franco-Cambodian fare may appreciate such milder choices as roasted game hen and grilled trout. For those who may be interested in expanding their gastronomic and cultural horizons, the Walk also offers cooking classes.
“We have been offering those for about three years now,” Scottt says. “People enjoy coming to the restaurant, cooking in the kitchen, meeting the chef, having lunch and wine, and learning about the French and Cambodian cultures.”
Though you may want to save room for a Fenway Frank or two, the Walk is a great place to eat before the game, especially because diners who spend more then $50 are allowed to park for free at the Landmark Center for the entire game. And with their discreet television hung above the well-stocked bar, even patrons who can not score tickets can enjoy the goings on.
“We have peanuts at the bar and a new omelette called ‘Omelette of the World Champions,’” Scott says. “We thought it was only right to do our part for the team.”
So whether you want something from just over the town line or from the other side of the world, The Elephant Walk is a great place to stretch out, relax, and enjoy something new.
The Elephant Walk
900 Beacon Street, Boston, MA
617 247 1500
www.elephantwalk.com