Deep-rooted Flavor: Walnut Grille will change your mind about vegetarian cuisine (Originally published 3/04)

When I advised my dining companion that I had a vegetarian restaurant in mind, his response was unfortunately typical.

“Ugh!”

Clearly, he had not been to the Walnut Grille before.

While the décor says Newton Highlands chic (with its funkily-colored chandeliers, cushy entrance nook, chromed open kitchen, sleek tiled bar, and a large foam wedding cake by the door advertising catering and celebrating special events), the menu for the Grille combines upscale, progressive ideas with earthy, honest, amazing flavor. Pretty much anything you order will offer a combination of familiar and forward-thinking and expand the palette and mind of even the most devoted carnivore or misunderstanding vegan neophyte.

With their vegan, gluten free homemade soups such as butternut squash bisque and beluga lentil and salads that feature such enticing and exotic ingredients as golden beets, hijiki, jicama, mung beans and roasted pears and all of which can be topped with a wide array of dressings and soy-based “meats,” it is easy to arrive at a meal before you even reach page two of the expansive, return visit-inviting menu. Among the appetizers (most of which are vegan and available gluten and/or soy free) are coconut-breaded organic tofu, chick pea flour-coated cauliflower (a must, believe it or not!) and the Grille’s ‘Uptown” nachos that feature refried beans, Monterey pepper jack cheese, sour cream, pico de gallo and “guac” – all without gluten! While any of these offerings are ripe for sharing, there are also combination platters of apps and artisan cheeses for those who want to try even more new things.

As so many items are gluten free, the Grille is a welcome haven for those with allergies or those who simply wish to simplify their internal systems and perhaps lose weight. Even their sandwiches are available on gluten-free bread which is actually rather tasty! From the PLT (with portabella mushroom standing in for bacon) to the falafel wrap with lemon tahini and the Cajun seitan (another soy-based treat) with vegan remoulade, these too can make a meal unto themselves.

But wait- there’s more! In addition to such soon-to-be-favorite plates as the veggie (as in zucchini, lentils, sweet potatoes, spinach, etc.) lasagna, the steamed or grilled vita-fest known as the Macro Bowl, the hand-pressed, nut-encrusted tofu with mushroom gravy, and the garden loaf (think your mom’s meatloaf without the meat…or the guilt!), the Grille also offers Sunday morning omelets of all nationalities and varieties, and a daily selection of pizzas (including such toppings as Tuscan figs, oyster mushrooms, artichokes and sweet potato), burritos and quesadillas and even “burgers” made from tempeh or everyone’s favorite protein-grain, quinoa. So even if you are a dyed-in-the-wool bar food type or even a devoted burger hound, the “vegetarian and vegan experience” (as they call it) is not so scary after all!

No matter what you order, there should always be room left for at least one of the Grille’s savory sides, such as their grilled tofu and tempeh, soy “chicken” tenders, hand-cut sweet potato fries or homemade hummus and salsa. And to complement the meal (more than to simply wash it down, as each bite is to be savored for its flavor and nutrition), the Grille offers a soda fountain’s worth of organic coffees and teas, natural sodas, fresh-squeezed juices and creative smoothies, like the Pink Dolphin (a bright and playful combo of raspberries, mango and banana) and the First Kiss (a sweet and slightly seductive puckering of strawberries, banana, pineapple, and agave nectar). There is also an impressive wine and beer selection, including gluten-free wine and beers and even a selection of Kosher wines.

For parents who wish to introduce their kids to the organic lifestyle (or to find a place to eat with kids with allergies), the Grille is the perfect place, as it offers an array of picky eater faves each made with the same freshness and flavor as the rest of the menu. In addition to the typical sandwich presentation (which in this case is anything but typical, with the available local cheese on gluten-free bread), the Grille offers a brown rice-based burrito (a smaller version of the amazing adult offering) or vegan-available pizza, any of which can be accompanied by fresh apple or orange juice, lemonade or milk.

Before you finish what will surely be the first of many visits, be sure to leave a little room for the Grille’s amazing (gluten-free or not!) desserts, which include a chocolate pear cake, a blueberry chiffon pie and a vegan chocolate soufflé that is well worth ordering in advance!

As for my vegan-anxious friend, in the end, he put it better than any food critic ever could.

“This place is great!”

Well said!

 

Walnut Grille

1203 Walnut Street, Newton, MA

617 964 1029

www.walnutgrille.com