Though the folks on the North Shore may be at an advantage when it comes to knowing where the best deli sandwiches this side of New York are, Boston and vicinity has had time to catch up. And judging from the regular stream of regulars who come into Michael’s Deli in Brookline ever day, they are doing their best to keep up on an almost daily basis!
Since it’s early days in Swampscott, Michael’s was the first name in deli for hundreds of devoted fans, including such savvy Bostonians as Howie Carr, Jordan Rich and the Phantom Gourmet, all of whom continue to rave (and rightfully so) about the “King” of corned beef. Even though the venue has changed to Brookline’s Coolidge Corner and the name on the door no longer matches that of the man behind the counter, the neighborhoody, regular-friendly vibe and reliable, always delicious menu remain. In fact, under the watchful twinkling eye of new “Michael” Steve Peljovich, the Michael’s mystique may actually be expanding!
While the décor remains a practical combination of Michael’s many awards and accolades (from the likes of local schoolchildren ,as well the Phantom and Anthony Bourdain) and cases of extra sodas and chips, the addition of a family photo of Steve and his beef-corning brood and a Dolphins helmet on top of one of the many soda coolers (which hold everything from Poland Springs and Vitamin water to Dr. Brown’s, San Pellegrino, Moxie and, of course, Polar seltzer) add a bit of hominess to the small but definitely-worth-seeking shop. With just a few wooden tables and chairs that align alongside the deli cases that are always tempting diners with one more something, seating can be at a premium (especially during lunch rush), but the team at Michael’s is always happy to wrap it up for you to take back to your home, office, or a nice park bench to savor the meal and the day. Comfy and cozy, Michael’s is a great place to eat, meet, and maybe make a new friend (in addition to Peljovich and his friendly staff).
Born in Miami and educated at Michigan, Peljovich brings his lifelong desire to “play” with food and a refreshing mix of Old Country and New World flavors to his already diversely-talented deli. No matter what Peljovich serves, he does it with a cutstumor-first attitude and Miami-sunny smile that makes every diner feel welcomed, whether it is their first time or their 50th. He even has a knack for remembering regular’s regulars and takes note when they decide to embark on a new gastronomic adventure.
But how can you blame them? In addition to a “traditional” corned beef sandwich that can come as either single or double cut (which apparently has to do with the amount of marbled fat in it) and multiple versions of pastrami, Michael’s now offers flavors for its already succulent meats such as maple glazed and balsamic and fig. Among the tasty toppings available on the completely customizable sandwich board are standards like amazing mustard or more epicurean offerings such as apricot chutney, smoked gouda cheese, and steamed onions. Other “signature” sandwiches include the Michael’s Choice which pays tribute to the originator with a combo of corned beef and brisket with horseradish sauce, a Pearl hot dog wrapped in pastrami and sauerkraut, a slow-roasted, brisket-filled “steak” and cheese, the imminently sharable smorgasbord known as the Triple Brisket on a custom-made 7” onion roll, and the community-minded Thorty Black and Gold, a portion of the proceeds from which goes to the Shawn Thornton Foundation, which helps people dealing with cancer and Parkinson’s. There are also a full menu of :dirty” sandwiches that includes a “disheveled” brisket, “unkept” tuna, “messy” mango chicken salad, and “sloppy” hot roast beef. Grab some extra napkins and go for it!
While the sandwich options are enough to fulfill any deli dream, sliding down the counter to the knishes is where things really get messhugah! In addition to the “standard” potato, spinach, beef and kasha varieties, Michael’s also offers “Mishigas” knishes that are stuffed with (more than) a little bit of everything and easily make for a meal in themselves. On any given day, there are also special knishes that take their cues from whatever day it happens to be (Who knew there was a National Pastrami Day or that Michael used it to premiere a quartet of pastrami flavors, the proceeds of which went to the Greg Hill Foundation?) or whatever mood Peljovich may be in, which can include everything from veggies to brownies and sprinkles! Among the other spectacular “sides” are seasonal soups and salads (garden, potato, chicken, etc., all of which are available in a variety of flavors that include Yukon Gold and mango) and re-pickled pickles that open up a whole new world of dill-ish-iousness.
If just one sandwich is not enough (in terms of flavor; NEVER in terms of size), Michael’s also offers pretty much everything by the pound or quart and also caters everything from family gatherings to pharmaceutical meetings. If you cannot decide, Peljovch is always happy to explain what he thinks might be your new favorite and why.
So whether you yearn for a corned beef on dark like you had in the Old Country or the latest taste sensation (or sensation-to-be), Michael’s is a great place to truly take a break for lunch and to savor every flavor and every moment. So bring your cash (no cards, please), your appetite and your time to relax and enjoy. No matter when you come or what you order, you will surely leave happy but never hungry!
Michael’s Deli
256 Harvard Street, Brookline, MA
617 738 DELI
www.michaelsdelibrookline.com