Owned by the well-connected (in a good way) and passionate paisan Nick Varano (who recently opened Nick Varano’s Famous Deli right around the corner on Cross Street, to go along with his already popular Strega and the recently re-owned Marina Bay Beach Club in Quincy), Nico Ristorante offers “uncompromising Italian cuisine” courtesy of Sicilian-born chef Salvatore Firicano, who came over with Varano from Strega to expand his edible empire.
From an “A-list” wine list to their own soundtrack (available for download on their website) Nico has everything you could want in a fun and fine dining experience, all delivered with a hefty helping of authentic Italian hospitality and flavor.
In addition to the four HD televisions (most of which are usually showing “mob” movies, but sports are also readily available too), the white granite bar is backed by knowledgeable tenders who are more than happy to suggest a drink and even give you a taste or two. Among the house specialties on the beer, wine and cordial list are the Pomegranate Mojito, the Oatmeal Cookie Shot, the Roq Candy Martini (with real rock candy!) And the fresh-from-Sorrento Limoncello, as well as an international gang of grapes that runs from CK Mondavi to Cristal. On either side of two sets of pulled-back red velvet curtains, sturdy, rose-topped tables invite guests to enjoy a private dinner while peeking at what their neighbors have ordered. While the waitstaff is also readily available for recommendations, it seems that it would be difficult to go wrong with any selection. Among the appetizers are a Caprese tower of mozzarella, backyard tomatoes, basil and EVOO, a squat eggplant Napoleon that features Buffalo mozzarella and plum tomato sauce and a variety of salads. The main course side of the menu includes such “classics” as Nick’s “Fusilli My way” (with shrimp, zucchini, and fresh Ricotta cheese), gnocchi Sorrentina in tomato sauce, the risotto of the day (which can be made to order as long as the ingredients “fit” with Italian culture) and a traditional plate of spaghetti with Nico’s famous veal meatball. Among the “house specials” are a 20 oz. Veal chop in truffle sauce, a baked stuffed lobster served in a ceramic dish and a Chilean sea bass that swims down your gullet on a sea of fish stock and creamy mashed potatoes. As you wait for your delicacies, try to resist the bread and olive oil (with real olives). And when the main course moaning and lip-smacking is all over, be sure to leave room for homemade cannoli or tiramisu.
From start to finish, a night at Nico’s is almost as good as a night with Varano’s own family. The friendly staff and delicious, hand-prepared offerings make for a wonderful meal and a great time. While Nico may be touted as “a new concept in dining,” it may be just as good to say that it is truly steeped in old-fashioned quality an care.
Mangia!
Nico Ristorante
417 Hanover Street, Boston, MA
617 742 0404