As is so often the case, Boston is late to the dance when it comes to the sleek and savory contemporary Mexican restaurant called Rosa Mexicano. Fortunately, as the 15th of an ever-expanding network of chic eateries, we can still fiesta with the big boys!
From the moment you cross the stone street- and slip-side patio and enter the revolving doors, your eyes are opened to a pueblo full of designs and textures that range from a constellationed lighting fixture over the column-encircled host fortress to red leather and brown seatbelt-strap seating areas around light wooden tables to the famed water wall with cascading crucifixes diving down a sea of Mexican blue tiles. This sensory satisfaction is nothing, however, compared to the gustatory glee that guests encounter any time they come (back) to visit Rosa.
With Chef Darren Carbone at the helm and Top Chef “Jedi Master” Jonathan Waxman consulting from behind the corporate curtain, Rosa’s team of creative culinarists compose comestibles that complement each other pretty much no matter what is ordered. As the carts of custom-made, two-sized, three-temperatured guacamole wheel around the front room and back bar area (where some of the venue’s prized tequilas are on display right next to a the HD TVs and other lovely things to look at), diners settle into such special starters as Mexican fondue (fundido), crispy chicken tacos (flautas), cheese-smothered gilled corn on (elotes) or off (esquites) the cob, a dessert-izer serving of fried plantains with fresh cream (platanos) or any of
Rosa’s famed ceviches, which include everything from scallops to tuna to a sampler for those who just can’t pick one (or who are eager to share). There are also a “snack” sized bowl of red bean chorizo chili, a plate of pulpo (octopus) and an heirloom tomato salad that features fresh fruits from Sparrow Arc Farm in Tory, Maine, from which Boston’s Rosa picks many of her fresh herbs, vibrant veggies and even her titular rosas.
An attractive next course may contain any of Rosa’s fresh tacos, which include fresh-made tortillas filled with fried or fresh fish (the staff call them “sushi tacos,” and rightfully so!), veggies, scallops or Niman Ranch filet. For those who wish to commit to a main course, Rosa offers shrimp brochettes, butterflied snapper, chicken tortilla pie, and their “skillet style” tacos that come open-faced on an overflowing miniature cast iron pan with eight ounces of meat (chicken or skirt steak) all the fixins. Combining contemporary with classic, every Rosa offers a daily rotation of menu items that have been with them since their founding in 1984. These include Monday’s pork shoulder, Wednesday’s braised lamb shank and a weekend’s worth of Saturday night steak and stuffed poblano chiles for Sunday dinner. In addition to such special sides as family-style bowls of rib-sticking refried black beans and flavor-bursting yellow rice, each table is presented with plenty of Rosa’s signature salsas, both of which (along with the chain’s official cook book) are available for enjoyment at home.
Speaking of “signature,” few meals at Rosa are complete without their powerfully sweet frozen pomegranate margarita that is profusely pumped out of a pair of soft-serve machines behind the bar. Other special drinks include the more calorie-conscious “Rosalita” margarita, a set of “shaken” and “stirred” slakers and Rosa’s lists of domestic, Spanish, Latin American and international beers and wines (organized in such categories as “value” and “celebrate” and “names you know” to tip off even the most modest oenophile), sangrias that run from organic to orgas- well…and their supportive tequila list which is organized both by age and price and includes tasting notes for each and every variety of pure blue agave elixir. For the drivers in the crowd, there are pitchers of fresh-made agua fresca limonada (lemonade) and other “virgin” delights, so everyone can have fun- even the responsible ones!
For those who like to be a bit more irresponsible and peek behind closed doors, RM offers a pair of secluded rooms named after their famed tequilas and also a photo gallery of their other venues (to which are soon to be added San Francisco and San Juan). Pretty much everything else at RM is open and airy, allowing the sights, sounds, and smells(!) to waft and wander, mix and mingle just as the guests do.
No matter what you had or where you went, however, everyone comes back together for Rosa’s spectacular set of fresh-made desserts. No matter which of Rosa’s crack team of servers and managers you ask, the response will be informed and friendly, but may not be the same as everyone seems to have their favorites. And who can blame them? With options that range from traditional churros (Mexican “munchkins,” for the locals) to a creamy cheesecake filled with baked apple and candied pecans to an espresso-infused flan (custard) served on a warm brownie with cinnamon whipped cream to the symphonic flavor explosion that is the banana chocolate chip cake with peanut butter mousse and cinnamon swirl ice cream, it is simply impossible to go wrong, especially when you can wash the majesty down with a set of dessert cocktails or traditional (or not-so-traditional) Mexican coffees.
As if any meal at Rosa were not especial enough, they also offer a calendar of “Flavors of Mexico” meals that includes savory celebrations of “Dia de los Muertos” at the end of October and Waxmans’ famed “Mexican Passover” in April. For those who can’t wait for a holiday, the Sunday brunch is also worth checking out…and it comes every week! So whether you want a taco, tequila, or a total sweet-tooth overhaul, Rosa Mexicano may be your new place. Thank Dios it is finally here!
Rosa Mexicano
155 Seaport Boulevard, Boston, MA
617 476 6122
www.rosamexicano.com