Before there was Todd and Lidia and Michael and Ken, and the rest of Boston’s “name” chefs, there was Jacky Robert.
Having moved from France to Boston to help his uncle open the world famous Maison Robert, the do-founder of the charitable organization On Board for Kids (www.onboardforkids.org) served everyone from Julia Child to the Kennedys with his signature combination of French class and Boston charm. After a stint in San Francisco, where he helped revive that city’s food scene, the 2010 “Chef the Year” of the Maitres Cuisine de France (one of only 200 of the group’s members in the world) returned to his adopted home to take Maison Robert to new heights before heading over the equally legendary Locke Ober where he served as Chef de Cuisine and then spreading throughout the Hub with his popular group of Petit Robert Bistros.
These days, Chef Jacky can be found in the peek-in-able semi-open kitchen and also ambling through the dining area of Ma Maison, the cozy corner eatery across the street from MGH where he is able to share his expertise and his stories of the restaurant road with devoted fans and neighborhood visitors alike.
The venue is indeed homelike, with warm bricks and woods accented by items from Jacky’s silver service collection and menus from his many award-winning eateries lining the walls of the restrooms.
With a curated menu and wine list to match, Jacky is able to share his French culture and love in a way that works for Continentals but is not alienating to Colonists and that provides a welcome escape from the bustle of Beacon Hill.
Among the deliciously daring offerings are the St. Germain soup, the blue cheese soufflé, farm-raised pigeon, and Burgundy escargot. Daily specials range from Wednesday sweetbreads and Thursday tripes to Friday veal kidneys and Tuesday pig’s feet. On any day, there are such equally impressive offerings as butternut cream and wild mushroom soup, Belgian endive salad with brie, monk fish filet with lobster, and oysters by the half dozen. Main course dishes include a satisfying vegan lentil cake with quinoa and faro, a rich chicken thigh coq au vin with butter noodles, Chablis-braised lamb shank, white marble pork chop with sautéed spinach, and a 12 oz. black Angus steak frites with hand-cut fries. Any of these enticing options can be sided with creamed or sauteed spinach, sautéed mushrooms, or ratatouille.
Need to recover from your day or celebrate a special occasion, try one of Jacky’s slyly creative cocktails like the Monaco (beer, Sprite, Grenadine), Panache (beer, ginger ale), Kir Royal (house champagne with Crème de Cassis), Poirette (champagne and pear liquor), or Cosmo Ma Maison (orange vodka, Cointreau, and fresh blood orange, lime and cranberry juice). Jacky and his Parisienne partners also hand-pick wines and champagnes that are available by the glass or carafe and a handful of international beers that range from Smutty Nose to Stella.
Pour Les Petites (for the kids), Jacky combines sophisticated with super yummy by offering simple pasta with butter and Parmesan to petit burgers and steaks and grilled ham and cheese sandwiches. 100% of proceeds from any young diner order goes to Chef Feed Kids (www.cheffeedkids.org), which supports underprivileged children in the Philippines and emphasizes the chef-owner’s desire to help his community and those around the world.
Whether you are a kid or just a kid at heart, before heading back out to Cambridge Street, treat yourself again with one of Jacky’s giant profiteroles or his dense and decadent sweet mousse.
So whether you too are an import from the Continent or Cambridge Street refugee, take some time to take shelter in the happy home of one of both places’ most legendary menu makers. Jacky will surely be happy to see you (and vice versa)!