Bon Jour, Delicious! : Easygoing French bistro is foundation of Chestnut Hill (Originally published 6/05)

No longer known only as the petit frere of popular South End dining spot Aquitaine, Aquitaine Bis now holds its own among tony Chestnut Hill’s best eateries.

With its warm woods and Cordovan leathers, its brushed nickel railings and twirling ceiling fans, and its contemporary French music and art (most of which consists of large advertising posters), Aquitaine Bis is far more an authentic bistro (hence the name) than a roadside restaurant. Even the friendly and knowledgeable servers use proper pronunciation!

“It is a real neighborhood place,” says General Manager Isaac Gilliard. “It is slightly upscale, but you can come in causally and enjoy a great dinner in a nice room.”

While the room may recall junior year abroad or a honeymoon in Paris, the real taste of France comes in the food itself! From the wines (which are arranged both by region and type) to the desserts (more on that later…), dining at Aquitaine Bis involves a wonderful melange of local and foreign flavors. Based in large part on fresh produce from Brookline’s own Allendale farm and other local purveyors, the fresh menu ranges from the house’s signature French onion soup (natch) and the beautifully-presented (and just as delicious) warm paillard of beets to a melt-in-your-mouth lemon sole meuniere, gnocchi cordon bleu, or filet au poivre. A regular rotation of daily specials include lamb, skate wing, duck, lobster, and veal, and there are always more surprises dreamed up each day.

“Our French bistro style is a good, homey comfort food and that is attractive to people without being intimidating,” Gilliard says. “It is something that everyone can relate to, and maybe even make themselves.”

Among the lunch selections are a variety of soups (including the ver-popular soup du jour), salades, and sandwiches of roasted chicken salad, grilled filet mignon, and Parisian pressed ham and Guyere cheese, all of which come with the bistro’s addictively crispy pommes frites (a.k.a., “ Freedom fries” to you patriotic types). Sunday brunch offerings include two varieties of eggs Benedict and a pair of Niçoise salads, French toast (made with brioche, of course), neighborly Belgian waffles, and lunch-ier sandwiches.

“We try to change the menu seasonally,” Gilliard explains, “and we always use the freshest ingredients available.”
And then, of course, are the desserts! From an ever-changing palette of homemade ice creams and sorbets, with flavors that range from Mandarin orange to passion fruit, to semi-decadent servings of warm pudding cake (AMAZING!) and the house crème caramel (WOW!).

“We have a new chef de cuisine who used to be a pastry chef,” Gilliard explains, “so a lot of things on the new menu are things he brought to us.”

Though located between a supermarket and a professional building, Aquitaine Bis is far from typical strip mall fare.

“It is great to watch people come in here,” Gilliard says. “They have something else in mind because we are in a mall, but they come in and are really impressed and pleased.”

So whether you are at the movies next door, shopping down the street, or just looking for a new and interesting place to dine and unwind, Aquitaine Bis is the perfect spot to stop along the way.

“Having had such success in the South End, we felt that there was a big suburban audience for this kind of food,” Gilliard says. “We have people who come here one night and go to our other location another night, so it was apparently a good idea. And as we have parking here, it really makes sense!”

 

Aquitaine Bis

11 Boylston Street, Chestnut Hill

617 734 8400

www.aquitainebis.com