A Bridge to Great Flavor: Riverside restaurant offers prime pizza and more (Originally published 5/12)

Just on the outskirts of the North End neighborhood is a neighborhoody pizza place that is well worth leaving your own neighborhood to visit.

With its exposed brick and crackled paint and simple wooden tables, Italian posters promoting everything from the menu to favorite products and politicians, a large communal table at its center and a mouthwateringly fragrant open oven at its heart, Ducali Pizzeria & Bar is a comfortable place to drop by for lunch or dinner or just a drink with paisanos before, after or even during one of the games happening around the corner at the Garden.

With an impressively extensive beer list that includes both international and domestic flights and growlers of Ducali Ale made by the folks at Harpoon, an Italian and American wine selection that backs the bar from floor to ceiling, and even both corn syrup-y American and cane sugared Mexican Coke, Ducali has plenty of choices when it comes to washing down the delicious food. Even so, it is the food that is clearly the center of attention here. And the attention put into it by owner Phil Frattaroli and his talented team is notable!

From appetizers to desserts, the combinations of authentic flavors and ideas makes it difficult to decide among them and each is served in portions that may suffice on their own. The only answer, it appears, it to come back often and try new things. Among the house favorite starters are the hot pepper-spiced calamari arrabiata, the creative pizza deconstruction known as nachos Italiano, and spinach and goat cheese or “to die for” Caesar salad (the latter of which comes with Portobello mushrooms, adding a modern Italian twist to the ancient Roman ruler).

For those with slightly smaller appetites (or expensive clothes they are wary to spill the recommended side of tangy tomato sauce on), Ducali also offers savory and substantive sandwiches, including a bubbling-over duet of grilled cheeses and a chicken and pesto on ciabatta that gets raves from staff and guests alike. As befits an authentic pizzeria, however, the main events are flat and round and come in two sizes, either of which is more than enough for one or even two. From the allegedly basic Margherita D.O.C. (mozzarella, basil and tomato sauce) to the unique Rugola (mozzarella with arugula, truffle oil, and shaved Parmiggiano Reggiano) to other stand-out standards like the Spinaci (with garlic, spinach, and Romano cheese), Melanzane e Zucchini (with eggplant, mushroom, zucchini, mozzarella and fresh goat cheese) and Patate (potato, rosemary, mozzarella, gorgonzola, and pancetta), every pie is hand-made to order on a light but chewy phyllo-esque dough that absorbs even the most delicate flavors and enhances the eating experience.
As the appetizers and pizzas are so grand and so delicious, it may be difficult to save room for dessert. But with options like a chocolate antipasto that is made by Phil’s mom and served on a branded pizza paddle and a fanatically-followed fried dough (torta fritta), it is well worth the effort, as is making the trip from your neighborhood to what may soon become you new favorite neighborhood pizza place.

 

Ducali Pizzeria & Bar

269 Causeway Street, Boston, MA

617 742 4144

www.ducalipizza.com