Raise it High: Red Lantern brings beautiful Pan-Asian to Back Bay (Originally published 6/11)

While you may not think you are in China when you enter Red Lantern, even Toto can tell you ain’t in Bertucci’s anymore!

With its high industrial ceilings buffered by pods of gauzy (and titular) red lanterns and the multi-leveled floors and exposed bleached brick walls accented with beautiful bodhisattva (including the reassuringly enormous ones that smile down from above and behind the open kitchen and bar) and its ethereally enveloping but not overpowering sound system, Red Lantern is physically the same way it is gastronomically- a comfortable and inviting combination of hip and hospitable, romantic and robust.

Though Feng Shui may not have been involved in the smart and savvy design, the patina-tinged mirror behind the bar and the combination of table shapes, sizes and shades help divide and direct the energy that flows throughout. For those who want their own temple of peace, the Apothecary Room can be sectioned off for private events and plans are in the works for a subterranean lounge. The wall of open windows along Stanhope Street combines with a set of skylights to wash the room in natural light that enhances the warm lantern glow and other bright spots.

Speaking of “bright spots,” the menu has many. From the lucky “88” martini, the playful “Mikado,” the hot “Wasabi Mary” and the “Yin” and “Yang” scorpion bowls to an international beer and impressive wine and sake list, Red Lantern has plenty of ways to get your meal and your good time started. Among the appetizer selections are warmed edamame with a creamy miso aioli, vegetable rolls that burst with freshness and a “signature” Pu Pu Platter that includes a little bit of almost everything. Earthenware bowls of silky miso and well named hot & sour soup are also available, as are a creative chopped salad and a salad featuring the latest veggie du jour- avocado. Despite this tip to the trendy, Red Lantern is more about the food than the flash. The portions are ample and presented in ways that are attractive without being distracting. From wok dishes and noodle and fried rice options (though the hearty brown may be your best bet) to a series of steaks (including another “signature” dish- the T-bone dinner) to fresh sushi that is available in a variety of preparations either at your table or at the sushi bar at the rear of the main room, the menu offers enough choice and the wait staff enough advice (when asked) to make for a delicious meal for even a reluctant Asian food fan.

So though the views of Boston make it clear where you are, a night at Red Lantern can certainly offer a welcome escape from the typical Boston fare.

 

Red Lantern Restaurant & Lounge

39 Stanhope Street, Boston, MA

617 262 3900

www.redlanternboston.com