While Boston appears to be enjoying a Greek Revival when it comes to food (see Michael Schlow’s Doretta Taverna & Raw Bar in Park Square, Brendan Pelley’s Pelekasis in the South End, and Jody Adams’ Saloniki), Newton has long served as a pillar of the Greek gastro community. In addition to the family-friendly Farm Grill (and the founding Iliades family’s famous Greek International Food Market in West Roxbury), there is also another Hellenistic haven a bit more off the beaten path yet no less worth the trip.
Located next to Cheryl Ann’s famous bakery, Putterham Grill (www.putterhamgrille.com) combines family-bred recipes with contemporary flair and also offers a substantial take-out counter for people who need sustenance for their daily odysseys.
At the glass counter, visitors can pick from an international set of sandwiches and other deli favorites, including a chicken gyro, Reuben, grilled cheese with tomato and ham, Nova lox, or 8 oz. burger. Among the “specialty” sandwiches are the Pilgrim (oven roasted turkey), the Old Timer (Angus roast beef), the Scollay Square (ham and turkey) and the Bostonian (the Scollay plus Genoa salami). Many meats are also available by the pound if you need something to put on your Cheryl Ann’s challah. There is also a selection of prepared foods, including Albacore tuna and white meat chicken salad, and Putterham’s hearty hummus, tangy taboulis and tzippy tzatziki.
Walking past the counter and also past an intriguing neon sculpture, guests are welcomed into a main dining room with a vaulted-ceiling above, comfy leather seats below and eye-catching locally-sourced art all along the walls. Each table is simply set with Putterham’s homemade olive oil and vinegar, but once the plates start rolling in, the mélange of flavors adds spice and sparkle to the entire room. Though a set-back space at the far sets the scene for weekly live music, the artistry that is presented on the plates and the fresh flavors that burst forth from them should be music to anyone’s mouth.
From fragrant pools of soup to creative salads that range from traditional Mediterranean (e.g., Caesar, Capreses, Horiatiki) to new ideas inspired by local farms (e.g., roasted beet and the Spring and Summer salad with mixed greens, diced mango, dried cherries, toasted almonds, and more tasty treats), the menu starts off strong and maintains all the way to the long list of delectable desserts. Among the starters of note are the chickpea-stuffed grape leaves, the smoky sweet grilled watermelon steak, tuna sashimi, stuffed mushrooms with a sherry maple reduction, and the Mezze platter that offers an array of flavors on one well-prepared plate. While specials and soups change daily and seasonally, the Avgolemono, French onion and chicken noodle (with or without matzo ball) are always available. Entrees include chicken or eggplant parmesan, as sell as a well-stuffed eggplant with a firm side of pasta, grilled kabab with chicken or steak, grilled Ribeye, or such gluten-free options as a tantalizing orange Balsamic glazed salmon with quinoa, sirloin steak tips, or pan-seared tofu. While the portions are ample, sides of sautéed spinach, truffled fries, and seasonal veggies are also available.
While the menu and the portions are both large and satisfying, be sure to save room for dessert, as the choices include traditional baklava and galaktoboureko, as well as more locally-inspired cheesecake, chocolate mouse pie and both Grape Nut and rice pudding. Order any one with a coffee or port (which is part of a small but international wine and beer selection that sadly does not include anything from Greece), and you are sure to leave both happily full and eager to come back to try more delights.