Features

PURE COLD PESACH

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The following message is only for people who observe Passover and for people who want delicious healthy food every day in April.

The vegetarian eatery Pure Cold Press is celebrating 10 years by serving food that is kosher for Passover on April 10, 11, 15, 16, 17, and 18.

As anyone who makes their house ready for this most observed of Jewish holidays knows, there is a lot involved in getting ready for the seders and other observances, so to do it for an entire restaurant is quite an undertaking! However, the folks at Pure Cold Press have always prided themselves on doing their best to serve their devoted customers. Perhaps that is why their first 10 years have been such a success, despite the pandemic and all the challenges that most restaurants face.

On most other nights, Pure Cold Press offers such popular offerings as their signature shakshuka, fresh fruit-topped pancakes, seitan-based mucha lucha salad, spicy protein bowl with soy chicken shwarma, and popular pizzas, and the freshly-pressed juices that originally gave them their name.

Thanks to their dedicated ingenuity, not all that much will change for Passover. Using potato flour, Pure Cold Press will have pizzas, paninis, and even bagels, as well as Passover editions of their famous Date Night smoothie and Liquid Gold and Namaste juices.

Passover is known as a time of questions and a celebration of liberation. If the question is where to eat, Pure Cold Press is the answer as it is a great place to try something new and break free from the everyday (or to find new everyday favorites).

BOGGI-OGGI-OGGI

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When I started my writing career 30 years ago, one of the first people I met was Russ Gershon – a polymath artist/producer/music teacher/record label head who has remained a friend through all these years

Now that I’m writing about food, it seemed only natural to promote Russ’s jazz trio (featuring Rick McLaughlin on bass and Brooke Sofferman on percussion) performing at OGGI Gourmet in Harvard Square on Saturday, April 12 from 7-10 PM as part of their Second Saturdays series. 

As it is Herbie Hancock’s and Hound Dog Taylor’s birthday, the music is sure to be extra cool…and the food? Well-

Having started in Jamaica Plain, OGGI itself has been around for over 20 years, which is quite an accomplishment! One taste of their food and it I easy to see why it has remained so popular.

While OGGI may be best known for pizzas with such tasty toppings as roasted mushrooms and goat cheese or jerk chicken with pineapple, Chef Steve Welch also knows his way around a sandwich and offers anytime faves like the perfect breakfast grab egg sandwich and a lobster sandwich that keeps many fans coming back. In addition to great food, OGGI also offers popular coffee and tea concoctions, as well as juices and smoothies, and a full bar.

As if all of this were not enough, for Russ’ events, Chef Steve will roll out a special tasting menu featuring whatever is fresh and hip (just like Russ’ music!).

For a restaurant to last 20 years is an accomplishment worth talking about, as is a friendship lasting 30 years. I hope to be able to talk to you live at OGGI on April 12 and whenever you want great food and a great time. 

BRUNCH AND BROTHERS

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I have often raved about Neroli, the amazing Italian restaurant and market in Westwood, and have made special mention when my favorite band- The Winiker Brothers – are in town to play there.

Well big news on both fronts- Neroli has recently expanded their offerings to include brunch on Saturdays and guess who is booked to entertain April 27 with seatings at 11-12:30 and 12:30-2 (with special guest, our friend and colleague Dan Rea)?

As the house band at such legendary houses as The Last Hurrah at the historic Parker House Hotel and over a quarter-century of wonderful weekend at Skipjack’s in Boston’s Back Bay, the Winikers know how to keep a brunch lively.

But when you consider that Neroli already has one of the best and most authentic Italian menus around, any weekend will surely be enhanced by a visit.

The new weekend menu is being served from 11-3 and features a brunch board with smoked salmon, sliced avocado, crisp bacon, and freshly-boiled eggs to cinnamon rolls with homemade limioncello icing to lobster rolls to an entire menu of freshly-pressed panini and an Italian Benedict that features poached eggs on Parma prosciutto and toasted foacaccia, as well as their famed arancini, gnocchi Bolognese, and signature parms (eggplant, chicken, or veal). To wash it down, Neroli offers their amazing Spritz tower featuring Santa Marina Prosecco, as well as a build-your-own Bloody Mary bar, sangrias by the pitcher and mimosas by the bucket-full. For those who found parking nearby, they also offer non-alcoholic treats like the Moji-No and a range of sweet and smooth lattes and other delights.

No matter what you order or when you come, brunch at Neroli will surely be a new fave for you, especially if you appreciate great food and amazing music.

I hope to see you April 27 and encourage you to enjoy Neroli whenever you can.

FERMENTING FUN

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Now that I have found a favorite kombucha on the North Shore (Pigeon Cove Ferments in Gloucester), it was time to look south to find someplace to stop on the way to the Cape or (as turned out to be the case) was worth a trip on its own.

Independent Fermentations in Plymouth not only crafts creatively-flavored and gently-bubbled small-batch and medically-beneficial kombuchas that include ingredients like locally-sourced maple syrup and whole fruits (including their Fire Booch which offers not only gut health support but gentle sinus clearing as well), they also offer a wide range of hand-made beers including the cleverly-named Pilsnerd and the locally-inspired Plymouth Rocks New England IPA.

Speaking of home brew, IndieFerm also offers a wide range of tools and tips for homebrewers and have regular classes on making fermented foods like beer, kimchi, kombucha, mead, pickles, and even cheese. They also host classes and events outside of their taproom and store on Camelot Drive, including ukulele group meetings April 4 and 19, a sip and paint class April 12, and a foraging excursion on May 10. Perhaps event most fermented fans are looking forward to is the return of annual Pickle and Fermentation Festival which will take place this year on June 7 and feature make-your-own sauerkraut classes as well as live music (which is another frequent benefit of visits to the taproom) and more fermented family fun that is sure to help your health and happiness.

Who knew things that were good for you could be so much fun?!

A MASTER-FULL MENU

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I cannot get enough of Craft Food Halls and it appears that my friends and colleagues can’t either as so many of them are hosting events at the various venues throughout the area (including the bar at the Moxy Hotel in Boston).

Everyone from connections at Alignable and Alray Scholars to the Winiker Brothers have been showing up to try the superb sous vide servings, perfect pizzas, and other amazing foods, as well as the ingenius wall of beers that allows guests to taste as many different kinds as they want and only pay for what they enjoy an ounce at a time!

Speaking of the wall of beer, Craft Food Hall on Maguire Road in Lexington is hosting a special beer takeover week from April 7-13 to celebrate the Masters golf tournament.

In addition to being able to watch the action from Augusta on a 12-foot wide LED screen, guests will be able to enjoy the latest and greatest from some of the area’s most popular breweries, including March Madness with Modelo on Monday, a wall of Wormtown’s wonderful washer-downers on Wednesday, and a slew of Citadelle ‘s super sippers on Saturday. There will also be music BINGO with Berkshire Brewing on Tuesday, April 8 and Craft will take everyone to the 19th hole with help from Tito’s vodka on Championship Sunday.

As they continue to expand, Craft is also crafting new taste sensations, including the soon-to-open Drip Café in the Seaport, so be on the lookout and keep following Matt’s Meals on WBZ.

EQUAL TALENT

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It’s been a bit since I talked about an event at City Winery, but I just found out that singer/songwriter/guitarist Janie Barnett is coming on April 17 for a special show.

Not only will the show be special in that it will feature the timeless music of the legendary Cole Porter as done in Barnett’s inimitable Americana style, but it will also be special because Janie is donating all proceeds from sales of her 2023 Cole Porter album, Under My Skin, to Mass Equality.

As Porter was famously closeted through most of his career, it makes sense that Barnett is choosing his music as the means by which to raise awareness for other people who may not be treated fairly in society. Especially as so many people and groups are feeling marginalized and unequal, this will surely be both a fun and important show.

For those who are not familiar with Barnett, she performed on Saturday Night Live with Rickie Lee Jones and has also performed with such legends as Linda Ronstadt, Bonnie Raiit, and Jimmy Buffett. To strengthen the ties to food a bit, she was also the voice of Diet Coke for a time. But, as is true of any event at City Winery, the food and drink are already well spoken for, thanks to sommelier Alex Nezam and his talented kitchen compatriots. Among the latest menu highlights are Calabrian chicken wings, grilled hangar steak, their famed charcuterie and cheese boards, and a mezze-style dip platter that lets everyone at the table enjoy! And as far as what to wash it down with, the place ain’t called City Winery for nothin’!

For more information about the show, go to www.citywinery.com/boston and for more on Mass Equality, go to https://massequality.org.

WHAT ARE THESE BOOTS MADE FOR?

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In Boston, there are many signs of Spring. 

People training for the Marathon.

Spring Training in Florida.

And the Walk for Hunger.

This year, I can’t predict who will win the big race and where the Sox will place, but I can tell you for sure that, on May 4, thousands of people will gather to walk three miles starting at Boston Common to raise funds and awareness for Project Bread.

Over the past 56 years, the Walk has raised millions and hopes to raise over $1 million this year alone to support Project Bread and its affiliates as they strive to stave off food insecurity in Massachusetts and to allow every citizen to enjoy healthy meals.

And it’s never been easier to be involved!

Walkers can form teams or are welcome to come alone and contribute to the community of caring. 

If you are already involved in another food-sharing organization (like I am with TheWishDishProject.com), you can participate in Project Bread’s co-fundraising program, The Commonwealth. 

If downtown Boston is not convenient for you, you can set up an alternate route in your neighborhood or anywhere you like to walk with the Walk Your Own Way program.

Even if you can’t walk, you can donate to Project Bread or become involved in other ways by visiting  projectbread.org/walk.

Spring is a time of renewal and growth. Make the Walk for Hunger part of your annual ritual to help others grow and renew as well.

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A COOKBOOK THAT WON’T LEAVE YOU FLAT

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I recently had the pleasure of interviewing historian and chef Hélène Piñer for the online publication Jewish Unpacked and, as her latest book is a cookbook and as Passover is coming, I wanted to share it with you all as well!

As a professor of Medieval French and Spanish history, Piñer has become an expert on Sephardic Jews from the Iberian Peninsula. Seeing food as a means to track people and cultures through time and place, she has created a series of books that focus on this ancient population. In addition to such international favorites as shakshuka and shug, the Sephardic Jews also apparently have a heavy hand in the history of the famous food that is highlighted not only at Passover but at every Catholic Mass- matzah!

In Matzah and Flour: Recipes from the History of the Sephardic Jews, Piñer looks at the various forms of flour that have been traditionally used when leavening was not allowed and the delicious and historic creations that have resulted. While the unleavened bread of Passover is the root of the story, Piñer offers recipes that use this simple but complicated cake to make meals that work well at any time of year. In the process, she also explores and engages readers in the deeper meanings of what is traditionally called the “bread of affliction” and how food can be a symbol of freedom and a sustainer of not only the individual but society as well.

In addition to the traditional Passover plates like lechem oni (“poor man’s bread”) and sweet and savory matzah-based recipes, the book also offers such Passover pleasers as unleavened tortillas, empanadas, burnt cheesecake, and Passover shortbread. And while the base of the Iberian-inspired book is matzah, it also offers recipes from other places and for other holidays, such as an Egyptian hummus, orange and raisin donuts, “Jewish” marzipan, and a well-named dish called the bread of the seven heavens. 

Whether you trace your roots back to Spain or the Mayflower, the story of Passover is a universal tale of overcoming oppression and celebrating through food. If you need a guide, I can think of few better than Hélène Piñer and this amazing new book!

www.academicstudiespress.com/

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SWEET FREEDOM

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While Passover may best be known as a story of slavery, there is a sweetness and sustenance to the Spring holiday that help keep more people participating than in any other Jewish holiday.

In an effort to up the ante, chocolatier Sarah Shapiro of Wild Child Chocolate in Somerville has combined her passion for single-origin chocolate with her Jewish roots to come up with a series of culinary questions that are as delicious as they are provocative.Based on the famous four questions that are for many an anchor of the observance of Passover, Shapiro has created a quartet of candies that encourage those who enjoy them to pose further questions about the people and relationships that are involved in their production and consumption and to make sure that the people involved are free to produce and procure them without anyone feeling enslaved or insulted.The four bars (which Shapiro maintains are the only small batch, Orthodox-certified Kosher chocolates made in the Northeast if not the country!) are all made with single-origin chocolates that are ethically-sourced. As they are all made with only three ingredients (cacao beans, cocoa butter, and sugar), they allow even the flavor of each bean to roam free. And as they are available as a set of tasting squares or larger bars, they can be enjoyed alone, at a family seder, or with groups of any size at any time of year.For those who want to be guided through the process (just as they may be at a seder), Shapiro also offers tasting experiences at her new Davis Square location, where guests can also enjoy her adventurous truffles made with such surprising ingredients as olive oil, curried peanuts, lapsang tea, and coffee and bourbon, and drinking chocolates enhanced with lavender, orange, wasabi, ginger, and even mole spices.Whether you ask the four questions at Passover or just want to know where to get the best locally-made chocolate, Wild Child Chocolate is a great place to find the answers.

SNAKES and SCULLERS

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It’s March, which means Mardi Gras is coming. And ‘round Boston, that means two things- Shaun Wortis’ Mardi Gras party is in the works and the Revolutionary Snake Ensemble will be on the move.

While I wait for Shaun’s latest hootenanny, I am looking forward to going to Scullers Jazz Club on March 1 to catch the Ensemble at a special Mardi Gras dinner party that is sure to bring the Bayou to Boston.

Especially as this is the year of the Snake, a Snake Ensemble show is all the more appropriate and fortuitous and they are always fun as all heck. This year, the Ensemble will be joined by local Jazz legend Jason Palmer and New Orleans native Henri Smith at both the 7 and 9 PM performances, so y’all can come.

And while any Snake show is worth the trip, the Scullers shows can also include a delicious Mardi Gras-themed dinner featuring flavors fresh from N’awlins.

While Snake Ensemble shows are always extra special, any night at Scullers is a reason to party!

In addition to some of the hottest names in local, national, and international Jazz (including Michael Weiss March 15, a weekend with Gerald Albright April 11 and 12, and a special 7 PM show with Joe Locke April 25), Scullers also offers packages that include dinner and even discounted hospitality at the DoubleTree Hotel.

Speaking of dinner, Scullers offers such jazzy flavors as roasted butternut squash soup with pea beans, whole milk burrata with roasted tomatoes, a traditional lobster roll, a baked salmon bowl with real Vermont maple, a pulled pork sandwich with onions braised in Jack’s Abby beer, and of course, DoubleTree’s legendary chocolate chip cookies.

Mardi Gras is a time to shake off your woes and let it all hang out before buckling down for Lent and preparing for a productive Spring.

I hope to see you shakin’ what the Lord gave ya’ at Scullers!