Features

A GREAT PLACE TO GET “HAMMERED”

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While Chanukah is officially “late” this year (starting on December 25), the folks at The Charles Hotel are already getting into the spirit with the return of the Maccabee Bar pop-up at Noir. 

Through New Years Day, the street-level bar and nosherie will get totally lit (with safety-conscious digital candles, of course) and offering sufganiyot (basically jelly donuts) and other special treats that will have you spinning your dreidel even if you also decorate a tree, light the world with Kwanzaa, or dance around the Festivus Pole.

For seven years, Maccabee Bar maker Naomi Levy has been bringing holiday fun and food to chosen places in New York and MA. And while she still hopes to land in NYC in time to recall the ancient miracles, the Charles Hotel is offering a special package for those who need to get their spin on in style.

In addition to the already great Noir menu, the pop-up features non-traditional traditional Chanukah foods from Executive Chef Sean Lizotte and Pastry Chef Daniel Angelopolus like left-of-center latkes, an authentic smoked salmon plate, and a different donut flavor each day. On the bev side, the illuminating cocktail list includes the sufganiyot sour, the Aperol Schvitz (made with real Manischewitz), the Hebrew Hammer (Maccabee means “hammer”), and a deliciously dark dreidel-inspired drink that comes with chocolate gelt garnish.

Of course, while you are in the hotel, be sure to drift upstairs to try the latest in farm-to-table excellence at Henreietta’s Table or live Jazz at Regattabar to find more holiday surprises.

So whether you feel lonely on Chanukah or just want to see how the 2% live, take a spin by Harvard Square to light up every night this month.

SHIP A-HO-HO-HOY

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Winter may not be the season when most people think of sailing, especially in Boston Harbor!

Thanks to the creative crew at Classic Harbor Line, however, the holidays are a great time to set sail.

In addition to private charters and other special excursions, Classic Harbor Line offers seasonal sailings in their safe and ship-shape ships that make the Harbor a great place to take friends, family, or colleagues for a special occasion or to offer them a deal that they can’t refuse lest they be forced to walk the plank.

I recently enjoyed a chilly afternoon on Classic Harbor Line’s Cocoa and Carols Holiday Cruise aboard the warm and inviting ship Northern Lights which was festooned with holiday decorations and featured a hot cocoa bar and live music.

Speaking of a bar, the ship’s galley is always open and offers creative cocktails and hearty snacks and meals, including chicken wings, quesadillas, and a grilled cheese sandwich that can be dipped in a crock of basil-flecked tomato soup.

After taking the souvenir blanket to the upper deck to take in some sea air and the breathtaking view of Boston, my friends and I returned to the cozy confines of the indoor area to join in the carousing and enjoy a bottle of Touro wine from Cape Cod, along with some delicious holiday cookies.

If Boston Harbor is not your box of tea, Classic Harbor Line also sails out of Newport, New York, and even Key West, so cold water is no excuse to enjoy their seaworthy offerings.

As I departed the ship and made my way back into the teeming throngs of shoppers, one question hung in my mind-

Who needs a one-horse open sleigh when you can have a climate-controlled boat?               

THE NORTH SIDE OF HEROISM

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We have often spoken about how Sol Sidell has used his South Street Diner near South Station to host special events that bring the community together. From hot dog parties when the Sox season starts to fundraisers for various groups and organizations (including Boston Senior Home Care, for whom he served as VP for 10 years), Sol’s heart is open as long as the diner is – 24/7.

On the other side of town, however, is another Sidell sibling who also does more than their share.

Having recently represented the region in Good Morning America’s United States of Breakfast finals, Robin Sidell of the North Street Grille was recently feted by Action for Boston Community Development (ABCD) as a Community Hero for her work on behalf of the organization and the tens of thousands of community members who benefit from its programs and support with food insecurity, housing, job training, and more. She prepares meals for the elderly multiple times each month and has made her place a safe and satisfying stop for neighbors from all over.

As anyone who has enjoyed a meal at Robin’s place knows, food insecurity is never an option at North Street! The portions are huge and every bite is better than the one before. And while her URL is bestbrunchboston.com, the Grille is a great place for any meal at any time (8-4, that is)! Whether you try the Nutella French toast sticks, the truffled lobster mac & cheese, a sandwich or salad, or the anything from the massive burger and Benedict menus (which are also signatures of Sol’s South Street site), you are sure to leave stuffed and smiling, especially if you try one of Robin’s ridiculous milkshakes (without or without grown-up sauce). Even in winter, the Grille is worth trekking the Freedom Trail to find (especially as the line might be a wee bit shorter)!

Boston is blessed with great food places run by great people and the Sidell siblings are always at the top of that list. 

Please support them so they can continue to support others!

THE GIVING TREES

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It’s Fall in New England and that means cider season- which for me means checking in with my friends at Champlain Orchards in VT.

And while I love their Mac & Maple and Farmstead ciders all year and their seasonal sippers like Honeycrisp and the recently-released Tuscan Blue are always worth waiting for (as is their forthcoming batch of ice cider!). In addition to their more traditional ciders, Chaplain also offers such creative creations as the local honey-tinged Larrabee, the ginger tea-infused Calyx, the Sangria-cider mash-up known as Sidria, and their amazing cider syrup. Despite all the delicious gifts they offer, however, what I love most about Champlain is how much they give to others!

In addition to partnering with other purveyors whose products they pack into their plentiful gift boxes, Champlain recently kicked off a new program that will have them giving more of their own bounty to people in need.

Through their new Cider for Good program, Champlain will donate ¼-pound of apples to area food banks for each four-pack of cider they sell. As they grow over 175 different fruit varieties, this program will not only bring nutrition to thousands but also educate many about the wide range of local bounty that is available in our region. And as the program will be hosted in New England, New Jersey, and Delaware, it will hopefully bring Champlain’s delicious drinks and other treats and their generosity to people far and wide.

While I do not need any more reason to enjoy Champlain Orchard ciders that than delicious taste and the good feeling of knowing they are ecologically responsible, to also know that they are helping others makes even the dry ciders that much sweeter!

SUPPORTING THE SUPPORTERS

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I have raved about the progressive programs offered at the New England Culinary Arts Training (NECAT) and recently had the privilege of returning to their main facility to share delicious food and encouraging stories with their students and staff.

In honor of their many Caribbean-born students, the menu included intriguing inspirations from The Dominican Republic, Haiti, and other proud nations. And while the plantains and Chef Chris Faison’s award-winning Jerk sauce were impressive, nothing can compare with the stories the students and staff shared.

NECAT has taken hundreds of new immigrants as well as people who are involved with the criminal justice system from lives of desperation and pain to ones filled with opportunity and triumph and many of their alumni now serve in some of our favorite restaurants!

During the delicious dinner, Chef Niurka LeBron recalled how she went from living in a woman’s re-entry home to serving at some of Boston’s finest restaurants during a rousing fundraising speech that combined fiscal logic with religious fervor. And when Instructor Michelene Desmoreau was presented with an official citation from Her Excellency Maura Healey (which will surely look nice when she opens her own restaurant in Quincy next month), the ovation lasted for many minutes!

As these are just a few of the incredible people and stories I encountered at NECAT, I urge people to go to www.ne-cat.org and learn more about this life-saving and life-affirming program. Especially as I also work with the incarcerated and with students who have faced significant challenges in life, I know what good can come from a bit of support and respect and the folks at NECAT deserve both!

A DELICIOUS PLACE TO HOWL

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It’s the end of October, which means only one thing- it’s time for the Mardi Gras-themed Pumpkin Bash at the Lizard Lounge in Cambridge!

Backed by the legendary Vudu Krewe, long-time music scene stalwart Shaun “Wolf” Wortis will jam along with other local legends at a charity-minded, costume-optional hootenanny that is sure to be a great take!

If you want to make it an EXTRA great night, reserve a table upstairs at Cambridge Common.

Combining upscale pub food with international flair and one of the best beer and drink lists around, the Common is a great place to grab a bite before a show or during a game or to meet and make friends while reading books about the Ivy League (Might I suggest lionstigersbulldogs.com?).

The Common is known for such amazing apps as fried pickles and pretzel bites, for their brunch favorite French toast sticks, and for offering both buffalo wings and tofu strips so even those who eschew meet can get in on the tasty fun! They also offer great beef and veggie burgers that call out to be combined with their award-winning sweet potato fries and a grilled cheese and tomato soup combo that is just right for this time of year. Their mac & cheese is rich and gooey and their fajitas sizzle with south of the border sabor. They even have healthy and flavor-packed bowls with everything from chicken to salmon to tofu!

To toast Wolf for his latest musical triumph, try a Barewolf Launchpad McQuack Red Ale, a Charles River Porter, or any of the other rare and special edition brews that the Common regularly rotates into their arsenal. On the way down to the show, see if you can find a review I wrote at the Lounge over 20 years ago. I will be there waiting!

FROM ‘PIET’-O TO KETO

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I was recently diagnosed with a genetic heart condition and am now looking down the barrel of some invasive procedures.

Fortunately (or perhaps not), I have a number of knowledgeable friends who had similar situations and are offering me sound advice as to how to deal with my heart health effectively.

Many of them have been recommending trying a ketogenic diet and one – famed local ceramic artist and chef Simona Alexandrov – has offered me a copy of her wonderful book, Keto Kitchen Renaissance: Transforming family traditions to unlock vibrant health.

In this well-researched and lovingly-prepared culinary memoir, Alexandrov explains what keto is and the many good things it can do for you and then offers tasty tips on kitchen and food prep that will make it easy for anyone to transition to this promising proclivity. Along the way, she not only introduces readers to some of the favorite meals she has prepared but also the favorite people for whom she prepared them, adding an even more personal and emotional touch to her well-reasoned recommendations. Though Simona is not a licensed nutritionist, her personal story of transformation and the evidence garnered from her familial test subjects are convincing. And even if losing weight or improving your heart and mental health are not your goals (huh?!), the recipes (which range from Simona’s signature salad dressing to kelp noodles, meatballs, soups, and sushi, to keto crackers, cookies, and candies, as well as selections from what she calls the House of Laughter – are plain and simply delicious and, with Simona’s help, easy to make and enjoy!

HARVARD HELPS THE HUNGRY

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It is rare for the neighborhood rivals at Harvard and MIT to get together on anything, but the cause of food insecurity is so important (and sadly so large) that the vo-tech school was willing to host the Party Under the Harvest Moon Gala that the liberal arts college was sponsoring for Food for Free.

Food for Free serves as a key cog in the food collection and distribution machine, bringing fresh produce and other nutritious essentials to over 100 organizations and (more importantly) 150,000 individuals who might not otherwise be able to access it. In the process of distributing over 6 million pounds of food a year, they also help deal with the absolutely nauseating issue of food waste.

At the event, guests were invited to meet the talented team behind the organization and their partners at Harvard and elsewhere and also to enjoy the music of Bubble Wave while trying to win bottles of wine and bid on other tasty treats.

Harvard has been a sponsor of the program’s Heat-n-Eats program, which repurposes prepared foods from their dining facilities by repackaging them into individual servings that are delivered by Harvard students and other volunteers to people who may not have the ability or facilities to prepare their own meals (including the students themselves!). Food for Free also brings monthly farmers markets to schools in the Greater Boston area, not only allowing more students and families to eat better but also encouraging them to learn about healthy food.

To do what you can so Food for Free can do more, please go to https://foodforfree.org/donate/ and be watching for the next Harvest Moon.

SCHOOL FOR SIPPERS

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As the days get shorter and colder, we all need something to keep our bodies warm, our minds engaged, and our spirits up,

Thankfully, there is a bevy of great new courses and other treats at Commonwealth Wine School!

Whether you are a novice sipper or a certified oenophile, CWS has events and offerings that will help you get more out of your wine and your life, including workshops, classes, and private events, as well as certification-level programs from the prestigious Wine and Spirits Education Trust and the Wine Scholar Guild.

On October 27, they will host a class for those who want to make Halloween more fun for older trick or treaters by explaining what wines pair best you’re your favorite candies.

November 1, their expert educators will advise others on how to negotiate for the best wines in international markets.

On the 2nd and 3rd and again on the 16th and 17th, Sake lovers will gather to explore their favorite beverage. I am looking forward to the cider and cheese pairings on November 9 but may also refresh my palate at the introduction to wine tasting class on November 22.

If you cannot make it to or find parking in Harvard Square, CWS also offers classes in NH and ME and also online.

Though the classes and events make for fun breaks from the winter blahs, for those who want to get away from New England winter altogether, CWS also offers occasional wine tours around the world, including a trip to Argentina that is scheduled for February of 2025.

See you in class!

BACK TO THE CLUB

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Though it has been some time since I wrote about music, I still get a thrill about catching my favorite acts at area venues!

And if I can enjoy a delicious meal at the same time- All the better!

In fact, Matt’s Meals was very much created when I was transitioning from reviewing bands until 1 AM to reviewing restaurants and then catching the opening act.

I recently returned to Club Café to catch my friend Lisa Gail Johnson who was performing as part of the Ladies Who Brunch cabaret series in the historic Napoleon Room. And while I caught up with other talented friends (including vocal behemoth Ron Murphy and fellow music scribe John Amodeo) I also got reacquainted with the welcoming vibe and delicious food and drink that the home of Drag Bingo has been offering since the 1980s as it protects the border between Boston’s Back Bay and South End.

The daring drink menu includes such legendary libations as the Sparkle Factor and Pixie dust margarita and a solid set of liquors and liqueurs for every taste and occasion.

While brunch is a specialty (natch!) that features French toast casserole and creative omelettes, the main menu ranges from housemade tortilla chips and half-pound burgers to MD crab cakes and locally-sourced lobster rolls to crunch salads and Shanghai power bowls, and LGBT wraps that wave the flavor flag proudly. No matter what you order, be sure to get your gang some legendary disco fries and save room for a dessert made fresh by our friends at Bread & Roses Bakery in Ogunquit, ME.

For those who want to enjoy more of the Club more often, memberships allow for line cutting, birthday surprises, and other special privileges.
But for anyone who comes (and I mean “anyone”!), Club Café is always a safe space to let loose and have fun with some of the most creative and talented people AND some of the best food and drinks in town.