I recently had the pleasure of interviewing historian and chef Hélène Piñer for the online publication Jewish Unpacked and, as her latest book is a cookbook and as Passover is coming, I wanted to share it with you all as well!
As a professor of Medieval French and Spanish history, Piñer has become an expert on Sephardic Jews from the Iberian Peninsula. Seeing food as a means to track people and cultures through time and place, she has created a series of books that focus on this ancient population. In addition to such international favorites as shakshuka and shug, the Sephardic Jews also apparently have a heavy hand in the history of the famous food that is highlighted not only at Passover but at every Catholic Mass- matzah!
In Matzah and Flour: Recipes from the History of the Sephardic Jews, Piñer looks at the various forms of flour that have been traditionally used when leavening was not allowed and the delicious and historic creations that have resulted. While the unleavened bread of Passover is the root of the story, Piñer offers recipes that use this simple but complicated cake to make meals that work well at any time of year. In the process, she also explores and engages readers in the deeper meanings of what is traditionally called the “bread of affliction” and how food can be a symbol of freedom and a sustainer of not only the individual but society as well.
In addition to the traditional Passover plates like lechem oni (“poor man’s bread”) and sweet and savory matzah-based recipes, the book also offers such Passover pleasers as unleavened tortillas, empanadas, burnt cheesecake, and Passover shortbread. And while the base of the Iberian-inspired book is matzah, it also offers recipes from other places and for other holidays, such as an Egyptian hummus, orange and raisin donuts, “Jewish” marzipan, and a well-named dish called the bread of the seven heavens.
Whether you trace your roots back to Spain or the Mayflower, the story of Passover is a universal tale of overcoming oppression and celebrating through food. If you need a guide, I can think of few better than Hélène Piñer and this amazing new book!