Restaurants

A North Shore Beacon

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While it can be fun to lose yourself in a surround-sound, 2,000-foot screen with a reclinable seat, there is nothing like a community movie house where you can not only catch up on the latest flicks but also catch up with friends.

Even more rare is a movie theater that serves great food and snacks for less than the cost of a second mortgage!

That is what makes The Beacon in my old town of Marblehead such a treat!

In addition to being a great restaurant and bar (and soon shared workspace) on its own, the Beacon is also connected to the historic Warwick Cinemas, which have been a great place to see films and to see your neighbors for over 100 years!

As if the proximity to the pictures weren’t enough, the Beacon also has impressive menus that include off-the-boat-fresh seafood in such forms as tuna tartare and flatbread, chowder, escargot, and their famed shellfish towers, as well as the Beacon’s homemade veggie burger, a creative take on a Cubano sandwich, and both swordfish and veal chops. Sunday brunch adds lox or hash and eggs, a Caprese omelet, the Beacon’s signature French toast and pancakes, and their tasty take on the ever-popular avocado toast, as well as live jazz!

In addition to being connected to the Warwick, the beacon is also tied to the Paddle Box snack bar which features a friendly walk-up window that offers seafood, wings, ice cream, and the MA and FL favorite Dandee Donuts.

And if movies are not your thing, the Beacon also offers live music from some of the area’s hottest acts making a boogie-woogie brunch or dinner and dancing as enticing as dinner and a movie.

While I am fortunate enough to have ties to Marblehead and so reasons to visit the Beacon, it is surely worth the trip from anywhere else – As long as you like great food, great films, and great times, that is!

https://thebeaconmarblehead.com

Time for Taffer’s Tavern

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As anyone who has visited in recent years knows, the Arsenal area has been saved from its former shabby mall form into the chic new Arsenal Yards by the introduction of such swanky eateries as Buttermilk & Bourbon, City Works, and yet another effort to capture the original New Haven nuances of Frank Pepe’s world-famous pizza.

And while legends like Pepe and Jason Santos have had a hand in bringing the area back from the brink of relevance (and health standards), another restaurant has recently taken a shot at the Arsenal.

As anyone who has watched “Bar Rescue” knows, Jon Taffer knows how to make a place to eat and drink work. That is why folks around the Arsenal and far afield are excited to have him open his signature Taffer’s Tavern. And while the Tavern has been cited by others in the know as the restaurant of the future, we can enjoy it right now!

As Taffer is in charge, you can be sure that the food in fresh, the staff is prepared, and the place is spotless and meets all health and safety standards (thanks to Taffer’s other signature item – the Taffer’s Safe Dining System™). But what is most important is the menu!

In addition to exclusive drinks like the warming Campfire (made with Taffer’s trademarked rye whiskey) and the cooling, cotton-candy topped Cloud 9, or a sharable set of Taffers tasters, the Tavern also offers a wide range of wines and beers that go well with their massive Tavern pretzels and tot roast fries and before their pot roast Stroganoff and towering chicken and waffles, fork and knife chili “dawg,” brisket-blend burger, and/or Maine-style lobster roll. Whatever you enjoy, be sure to save room for their adult milk n’ cookies or a donut trip that is  so fresh you need to order it before you order your meal!

Apparently the future of food (and food service) is now- so get going!

www.tafferstavern.com

Shanti Returns!

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In addition to being known as a center of technological and medical advances, Kendall Square had developed a reputation as a food hub as well.

Fortunately, one of the main spokes off that hub has recently returned!

Yes, our long-time friends at Shanti have reopened in Cambridge and are already offering special things to their long-lost friends and re-found neighbors.

Chief among these special treats is a new midday concept they are calling the bottomless Tiffin Lunchbox. 

In this take on the traditional early afternoon repast, Shanti is presenting a rotating run of favorites that includes samosa, saffron Basmati rice, Aloo and Gobi curry, their legendary chicken Tikki Masala, and their delicious and visit-worthy Naan bread that has made many a meal for me! 

What is best is that, not only is each box made with all the care and fresh flavors of the hand-packed boxes that are so famous in India, but if you eat it all up (as you are sure to do), you can get it repacked!

I first discovered Shanti in Dorchester over 10 years ago and we still make pilgrimages to their location in Roslindale. While I had admittedly not been a fan of Indian food before, I now eagerly agree whenever my family suggests another visit! In addition to their Naan, I love their raita sauce, vegetable pakoras, and pretty much anything from their menu of veggie-based specialties. And no meal is complete without a refreshing mango Lassi!

While I continue to beg for them to open in Needham, it is surely worth the trip to any of their locations. (or to have them deliver within certain areas). And now that they are once again helping to feed and sustain the scientists in Kendall Square, the cure for the common cold cannot be far away!

www.shantiboston.com

Chick it out!

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We have often sung the praises of our friends in food trucks and celebrated those – like Clover and The Dining Car – who have grown into successful brick-and-mortar businesses. But perhaps no trucker has traveled further than Avi Shemtov, who started with his pioneering Chubby Chickpea truck and recently opened a second location of his Mediterranean-minded Hummus v’Hummus at The Street in the tony Boston suburb of Chestnut Hill.

I remember waiting in line at the Chubby truck, smelling the fresh felafel, salivating over Shemtov’s signature stuffed grape leaves and artichoke blossoms, and sweating out the seconds until I could enjoy a cool cup of limonana.

As the second-generation chef has so much culinary culture and talent behind him, it is no surprise that he has not only added other trucks (including the travelling beer bar known as the TAPPED), but also created an eponymous restaurant group that includes award-winning area favorites like Simcha, A La Esh and the original Hummus v’Hummus at the Speedway in Brighton, MA.

While meal bowls continue to be popular, Hummus v’Hummus takes the health-conscious concept to new places by basing bowls on Shemtov’s historic hummus. In addition to the healthy bowls (that can be filled with the area’s favorite falafel or authentic Israeli chicken shawarma…or both!) Hummus v’Hummus also offers Shemtov’s superior selection of salads, sauces, and spreads. 

While those on Boston’s North Shore can learn more about Shemtov’s story and savory stuff at the Jewish Community Center in Marblehead, MA, on November 13 when he discusses The Simcha Cookbook (which is based upon his South Shore store Simcha) as part of the 2022 Jewish Book Month Speaker series (see https://jccns.org), the best way to get to know him is to taste his food and Hummus v’Hummus is a great place to start!

http://hummusvhummus.com

A new Clover to NOT look over

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While it may be late to grab one of their delicious Rosh Hashanah boxes, our friends at Clover Food Lab have another treat in store, especially for those in Somerville!

In partnership with other entrepreneurs in the food space (which are my favorite kind, especially if they are also Veterans!), Clover is opening its 15th location at Assembly Row.

Called CloveROW, the new space adjacent to The Row Hotel will offer area residents and workers and Assembly Row’s many visitors easy access to Clover’s famously fresh and inventive fast-causal vegetarian food.

In addition to their regular favorites like chickpea fritters, BBQ seitan, and Roman tomato soup, and new offerings like a potato pesto sandwich, the latest Clover concept will also offer a retail grocery space inside the restaurant that will carry such classic Clover creations as their signature hummuses, dips and dressings, sauces and soups, and meal boxes, as well as specialty foods from other area makers who also take the time and effort to make food as good and good for you as it can be!

Among the food friends are Picnic & Pantry from Bow Market, the beloved chocolate shop gâté comme des fille, and one of Cambridge’s favorite wine & dessert bars, Zuzu’s Petals. There is also fresh produce from across MA, coffees from all over New England, and even maple syrup from NY, as well as a wide range of small-batch spices, drinks, and treats. 

For those who want to learn more about the great collection of food for which Clover has long been famous and that they are now expanding, CloverROW will also host workshops and tastings spotlighting local orchards, coffee makers, syrup producers, and even artists who have also been inspired by the bounty that we are all privileged to enjoy!

www.cloverfoodlab.com

Drink wine ANY time at City Winery

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I know that I just sang the praises of City Winery’s new weekend wine tours and tastings and their mid-week wonder Wined-up Wednesdays, but speaking of singing, they just added two new sets of events that are sure to make their already delicious food and wine taste even better!

To make it easier to ease into Sunday, City Winery is hosting the Berklee Ensemble Brunch Series during which some of Boston’s most talented music students accompany their brunch buffet from noon to 2 PM. In a growing roster of revues, the talented tunesmiths will give you music and you can give them early audience appreciation What a deal!

On Mondays form 5-7 PM, the Winery will enhance their already impressive musical offerings by combining fine wine with great Soul music in a new series called Soul Pairings. From James Brown to Steve Winder and Cabernet to Zinfandel, the evening events will encourage oenophiles, weary workers, and music lovers to come together while bringing great tastes in wine and music together as well. And as a six-wine flight is just $15, it is a hard beat to beat!

Though events like this have been hosted for their VInofile members, Soul Pairings will open up the vault to all, offering a half dozen wines that have been professionally paired with select Soul jams that will swirl and stir the senses and the soul. 

www.citywinery.com/boston

Kid’s Cooking with Chef Shiri

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Compiled by Efraim Harari (Mesorah Publications, Ltd./Artscroll)

With shows like Master Chef, Jr. and other youthful cooking competitions becoming so popular, a question arises that often does at this time of year- What’s a Jewish kid to do? For just as many of us are surrounded by mistletoe and Yule logs come December (not to mention that music- Oy! Irving Berlin, take us away!), so too are many peppered by “kids” cookbooks that are laden with lard and other treyf.

Fortunately, a new option has emerged that not only includes kid-friendly recipes (that are conveniently ordered according to complexity- from “Eazy Shmeezy” to “Junior Chef”) but also offers relevant halachosand other satisfying side notes. From the importance of washing hands before cooking to the importance of saying berachos,this kosher kid cookbook has illustrated recipes for everything from banana mocha muffins and Teddy bear toast to stuffed shells, easy chili, one-step lasagna and apple pie. In addition to the recipes and Rabbinic messages, the book also includes kitchen safety tips, a handy guide to common cooking terms and utensils, and even some foodie-friendly jokes!

So the next time your favorite child feels like the only observant chef around, introduce him to Chef Shiri and al the wonders of Hashem’s creativity.

  • Matt Robinson

Angry Orchard, Sam Adams, and Kane’s make tasty autumn picks safer (and more delicious!)

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In this part of the world, apple picking is almost a necessity.

Sadly, pandemic restrictions have made it more challenging and have driven many away from our local farms.

While I do not condone such avoidance and encourage everyone to visit trusted markets and reach out to independent food  friends, it does give me a chance to sing the praises of some of my favorite providers.

As I grew up in apple country, I have long loved the awesome Autumn duo of cider and donuts. And many of my personal faves come from Angry Orchard and Kane’s. That is why I was so psyched to see the Orchard’s latest Harvest pack, which includes not only their classic crisp apple, but also a hearty unfiltered version, a tart green apple and even a pear cider. There is not a fall food I can find that does not pair well with at least one of these. And as I am stuck in the house anyway ,why not try two?

As for the donuts, our friends at Kane’s have also paired up with Angry Orchard to deliver a cider donut made with cinnamon and glazed with a reduction made from their signature honey and Angry Orchard’s cider. They are also collaborating with Sam Adams on a Jack O’ Pumpkin Ale donut.  Both are available through the end of October. So even if you have to go into the office, you can bring a bit of mischievous fun to your next non-Zoom meeting (or just enjoy some at home with family and friends).

Thanks to Kane’s and Angry Orchard for bringing all the flavors of fall in New England without any need to go outside.

www.angryorchard.com

www.samueladams.com

www.kanesdonuts.com

Tambo22 does MORE than hold down the fort

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In Incan culture, a tambo was supply and lodging facility conveniently located along busy thoroughfares that were run by locals.

In Chelsea, Tambo 22 is a well-stocked authentic Peruvian restaurant t that is capably manned by Chef Jose Duarte (Taranta) and his talented sidekick Brian Corcoran. Though it is alongside and nearly overpassed by routes 1 and 16, the rich smells alone should be enough to pull you off your route, and when you come inside 9r take a socially-distanced seat in what will hopefully soon again be their parking lot, you are sure to want to stay a while and enjoy!

As you take in the tropical flowers and fresh herbs that encircle the outdoor dining area, upscale Peruvian music wafts along the clouds of aromas that quickly start your mouth watering. To slake the thirst for what is to come, a frothily fresh Peruvian Pisco sour (with or without fresh fruits) or Tambo’s Pisco-swirled sangria are great choices. For those who wish to start with something non-alcoholic, the hand-crafted purple-corn-based chicha moradaor handmade guava and passion fruit soda s are fresh and fun as well. Tambo22 also offers South American and Spanish wines and beers from MA, Me, and Peru.

To start your stomach going, try the daily ceviche or the always fresh and zippy ceviche de tarwi, made with Andean Lupini beans and vegetarian leche de tigre(tiger’s milk). Another authentic favorite is the anticuchos de carne– grilled beef skewers with panca pepper and cumin and a uchucutasauce that grabs you by the salivary glands and makes you beg for more! For a fun twist on a traditional treat, the well-named better than Buffalo wings withaji amarillo(yellow pepper) and Peruvianrocotphot sauce are a sure-FIRE hit. If salad is your thing, Chefs Duarte and Corcoran have crafted another creative take that features hearts of palm, acai vinaigrette and shaved Brazil nuts, as well as a simpler mixed greens topped with guava (both of which can be additionally crowned with salmon).

Speaking of salmon, the main version with raw sugar cane glaze atop fried yucca and topped with pickled cabbage is a well-balanced and beautifully-presented plate, as are the northern Peruvian lamb shank with cilantro and chicha de jJora (corn beer). If the outside air is cool or if you really want to fill up, the super-hearty pulled chicken with creamy Peruvian pepper sauce, olive-roasted pecans, and a “perfect” egg is pretty close to perfect altogether!  The folks at the next table also seemed to love digging into a Tamburguesa(Tambo22’s truly signature burger) made from alpaca and short rib meat topped with huacatay aji(black mint) and Gouda.

{Ed note: As I write this, my mouth is watering again!)

While Chelsea may be facing more than its share of Covid woes, it is good to know that a local chef has set up a true Tambo at which neighbors from near and far can gather to eat and commune (albeit at a distance) and prepare for the journey ahead.  Make sure your journey also includes a stop (or two) at Tambo22!

https://tambo22chelsea.com

– Matt Robinson

United We Eat: 50 great American dishes to bring us ALL together– Capri S. Cafaro (Story Farm)

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As Oscar Wilde once opined, “After a good dinner one can forgive anybody.” Such is the premise behind former Ohio Senator Capri Cafaro’s debut book – United We Eat: 50 great American dishes to bring us ALL together.

Instead of offering a list of favorite foods from either side of the aisle (remember when politics amounted to peanuts v. jelly beans?) the political commentator and talented chef has reached across the aisle and into almost every grocery store aisle to compile a clever collection of Congressional cookery that highlights favorite flavors that can appeal to almost all Americans. From gubernatorial grub like New Mexico’s Susana Martinez’s working woman’s posole(gender emphasis included) and Wyoming’s Mark Gordon’s sourdough bread (an especially popular pick during these challenging times) to national committee cooks like Michael Steele’s Smith Island cake and Donna Brazile’s authentic Louisiana gumbo to presidential candidate favorites like MN Senator Amy Klobuchar’s Taconic tater tot hotdish and Mayor Pete Buttigieg’s Hoosier pie, to a representative roundup of recipes that includes RI Rep. Patrick Kennedy’s pasta e fagioli (you were expecting maybe corned beef and cabbage?),  NY’s Alfonse D’Amato’s lasagna (a recipe that apparently came from his mother, no less!), Mike Huckabee’s Arkansas pork butt (no comment), and Florida Rep. Donna Shalala’s tabbouleh a la Shalala (which just HAS to be healthy, considering the chef’s former role!), the book has flavors from all 50 states and many of their revered representatives. There is even a “bi-partisan” meatloaf that has been donated by a senator (at least at the time this was published) from Maine and former Press Secretary Sean Spicer’s favorite grilled burger recipe. And, unlike in Congress, even the District of Columbia gets equal representation with a baked chicken wings recipe with Mumbo (but no Jumbo) sauce.

So if you are feeling shut in and want to explore at leas the flavors of the other 49 states or if you want to see which party would have the best dinner party, be sure to vote early and often for this great American cookbook!

www.story-farm.com

– Matt Robinson