On the Money: No matter the time, Village Café has the tastes (Originally posted 10/15)

Money may make the world go ‘round, but the way to a person’s heart is through their stomach.

Such seems to be the overriding motto of Tony Mirogiannis, owner and chef at Newton’s Village Café (www.newtonvillagecafe.com) who, after years in the financial industry, followed his own heart (and his brothers, who own the North Ave. Diner in Wakefield) into the role of filling other people’s stomachs.

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Upon entering, the Café has a diner-y vibe, with its leatherette banquettes, giant pictures of how Washington Street used to be “back in the day,” chalkboards over the Formica counter, and even a pair of gumball machines. As you go up the entrance ramp and deeper into the space, however, surprising elements are revealed. Among these are a glistening mirrored case with neon-illuminated alcohol (part of the Café’s full-service bar), pendant lights amongst the exposed HVAC pipes, and the lack of that greasy smell that is such a staple at other diners and street-side eateries. At Village Café, everything is made by hand from scratch – right down to the potato chips – and the results are impressive!

The breakfast menu (which, though the traditional options for lunch and dinner are also delicious, is thankfully available all day every day) opens with a selection of “Pick ‘ems” that includes combinations of either two, three, or four of two columns of eggs, griddle favorites, and meats, as well as red bliss home fries, fresh fruit (including a freshly-cut half grapefruit), and even the ever-so-trendy Greek yogurt with granola. It is the perfect arrangement for the adventurous or the excessively decisive. For those who may need a bit more hand-holding, the Café staff is more than happy to recommend, or you can just pick from such specials as the char-broiled steak and eggs, lox and bagel (with capers!), or the well-named Hungry Man, which includes pancakes, three eggs, bacon and sausage. True egg aficionados can turn the page to the omelet menu, where such clever combos as the Gypsy (VA baked ham, red onions, mushrooms, and salsa), Popeye (fresh spinach and mushrooms) and the Ultimate (three eggs with as many fillings as you can handle) are available. Speaking of fillings, the Café offers everything from banana peppers, sun-dried tomatoes and kalamata olives to prosciutto, grilled chicken, and seven other meats (including turkey, turkey bacon and baked ham) and nine kinds of cheese (including fresh Mozzarella and Chevre). For those who are watching carbs, take a break and enjoy the Café’s fresh breads or an “imported” treat from Wayland’s own OMG! Bagels. Or just order a breakfast sandwich (such as the single or double egg and cheese, which are also available between pancakes) and get the best of all possible worlds.

Moving on from the pancakes, the Café’s “Sweet Spot” menu also includes Belgian waffles and Challah, strudel berry, cinnamon raisin, and granola or coconut-dipped French toast, any of which can be topped or filled with fruit, chocolate, ice cream AND/or Nutella. Wash it all down with a homemade lemonade or iced tea, a hot chocolate, house blend coffee or even a Gatorade (which you may need after putting down all that delicious food), and you got a great meal/special treat anytime!

If you insist on eating lunch at “lunch time,” the Café has you (well) covered there as well and it too is served all day every day. Among the amazing appetizers are homemade chicken fingers (regular or Buffalo-style), confit hog shanks with chipotle BBQ sauce, or their “most popular” spinach pie. An enormous menu of enormous salads includes a fresh “Garden” variety that is no garden variety, as well as Greek, Chef, Caesar (with or without chicken), tuna, seafood, and grilled or Buffalo chicken varieties, as well as an apple, pear and goat cheese plate that is a feast for the eyes and mouth alike! The multi-part sandwich board includes the Café’s signature ½-pound burgers with such topping combos as ham, bacon and American (the Meat Lover), Swiss, Cheddar and American (the Cheese Lover), or caramelized red onions, bacon and American (the Village Special), as well as creative wraps with chicken stir fry, Greek or Caesar salad, roast beef, or an entire Thanksgiving dinner(!). It also boasts sandwiches that run the gamut from a classic Reuben and chicken, tuna, or egg salad sandwich to a traditional or chicken Gyro and a meatloaf special with melted Cheddar, bacon, and rings (ON the sandwich), as well as paninis with Caprese salad fixin’s or one called “The Beast” with roast beef Jack cheese, roasted red peppers and horseradish mayo.

On Wednesday, Thursday and Friday from 4-10 PM, the Café adds to its already overstuffed menu of abundant offerings a dinner set that includes fish and chips, eggplant parm, and a raft of chicken choices that ranges from fried to parm to stir fry and beyond. For beef fans, the homemade meatloaf is an easy bet, but one that is complicated by the appearance of spaghetti and meatballs and both steak tip and roast beef dinners. Sides (also known as “add-ons” at the Café) include sautéed spinach, steamed broccoli, steak fries, sweet potato fries, masked red bliss potatoes with gravy and soup or stew.

Another element of the Café menu that may skew more towards evening (but that is available at other times as well) is the aforementioned bar. In addition to an impressive selection of beers and wines that includes Not Your Father’s Root Beer, Kentucky Bourbon Ale, Sonoma Cider, and Brooklyn Lager, as well as reds and whites from CA and NZ, and a house-made pair of sangrias, the bar offers a variety of fun and freshly-made cocktails that includes the Village Idiot (Deep Eddy sweet tea vodka and house-made lemonade), Fruity Pebbles (Bacardi razz, Bacardi O, OJ, pineapple juice and grenadine), the Waffle (Ketel One, butterscotch Schnapps and OJ), and the Nutella martini (Pearl vanilla vodka with Frangelico and Irish cream). Each one is worth a visit on its own and is also a great complement to the wide array of flavors and tastes that are served and satisfied at the Café.

No matter when you come (or come back) to the Village Cafe, it is a sure bet that you will not leave hungry. And with no item over $16, your wallet will end up nearly as pleasantly full as you are!

 

719 Washington Street, Newton

617-795-5200