By Matt Robinson
As a restaurant reviewer in MA, it can be a challenge to decide where to go on a given night. So how much more torturous is it to have two great places literally connected to each other?
Believe me- It is a GREAT problem to have!
As Matt’s Meals fans know, I have once again become a BIG fan of Temazcal Cantina (www.temazcalcantina.com). When I recently went to check out their Burlington location (on 2 Wall Street), I noticed that almost half of the space was being shared with what appeared to be an upscale pizza joint called Jack’s. Curious (and ever-eager to serve my readers and WBZ listeners), I went in to investigate, confident that, once I took a peek, I would be able to go enjoy another authentic Mexican-inspired meal at my old favorite.
As soon as my hand opened the door, however, the smell of fresh-made Italian treats and the inviting, airy space captured me like one of those old cartons where the scent of food becomes a finger beckoning me to enter further. I soon found myself in a comfortable leather banquette being attended to by a friendly and supportive server. Soon, my tastes changed from pico de gallo to pizza and, knowing that I would eventually return to the Cantina, I hunkered down for what would be another most pleasurable dining experience.
Though I felt a bit guilty trying to polish of a 16” coal-fired pie (not to mention a slice of Banoffee pie with its decadent combination of toffee and banana custard), when I found out that Jack’s was part of the same family-friendly restaurant family as Temazcal, my guilt was mitigated greatly and my enjoyment was ratchted up even more!
In addition to a beginning menu that ranges from coal-fired wings and charred cauliflower to RI calamari, homemade meatballs and spaghetti squash with fresh Pomodoro and Reggiano, Jack’s offers such salads as the Romaine Caesar and Lollo Rossa (with roasted beets, candied walnuts and a grapefruit vinaigrette), any of which can be topped with grilled chicken breast, shrimp, or sliced prosciutto. There is also a solid set of pasta-based meals that includes shrimp scampi, Fetuccini Alfredo, and chicken parmesan, as well as what is apparently Jack’s personal favorite (and with good reason!), the spaghetti and meatballs. What most people come to Jack’s for, however, are the 16” coal-fired pizzas (most of which are also available in a chewier 12” wood-fired version as well), that include such toppings as traditional Margherita, the forager’s pie with mushrooms and onions, a West Coast version with fig jam, blue cheese, and peppadew, a white clam pizza with béchamel sauce and beacon, a picante pie with banana peppers and many meats, and a loaded vegetarian that rivals Regina’s (which is high praise indeed!) for sheer mass of garden-fresh goodness. If you cannot decide or like your pie your way, you can also mix and match from nearly 30 individual toppings.
If you do not have the time or the stomach for an entire pie, Jack also offers lunch specials that fit your busy lifestyle while giving you a taste of his. Busy workers from the neighborhood often drip in for the pick-two option which allows them to enjoy a half Panini and soup or salad in nearly no time and for little money. Even if you are just in for a power lunch however, you owe it to yourself to try the aforementioned pie.
If you have time to linger, perhaps stroll out to the deck for a round of beanbag toss and a drink or come by Thursdays for live music or after 10 for half-price pizza and apps. Jack’s long, brass-railed bar offers plenty of flatscreens as well as 40 craft cans and bottles and 16 drafts that include all the popular local seasonals and one rotator that makes sure every visit can be something new. They also offer wines from the US and Europe and clever cocktails like the Italian Sunrise with Hedrick’s, St. Germain, Aperol, and their famed charred lemonade, Jack’s NEW Fashioned with Bulleit Rye and Cointreau cherries, and the Tanner Pride with Stoli Blu and Razz and Pom liqueur.
So the next time you are in the mood for great Mexican, do not be surprised if you end up with tomato sauce instead of salsa. You will not be disappointed either!